I run rotella haven't had any problems a few buddies run it to.

 

I run the 15/40 in my bike too

 

I love it

 

I started running it this year and it seems to work great. I was using Belray Semi Synthetic ATV racing oil last year and it works just as well as that stuff. Which is about twice as expensive.

 

i run the 15w-40 synthetic havent had a problem

 

I'm running a 10W-30W synthetic blend, but what I'd like to know is how do you judge a good oil?

I hear people say they don't have any problems, but what is a problem....trashing a crank...or are there other, more subtle indicators of a good/bad oil?

 

Ok.. I might give it a try too, but I agree with the question MCinOH is asking as well...

 

I am going the Rotella route as well with a stainless filter so I can do changes often. I've heard many of the synthetic oils aren't made for a wet clutch system and that can cause some problems. It needs to be JASO certified IIRC.

 

ok so this oil is fine to use on my 2010 yfz450x? its ok for my clutch then too?

 

I would say the only thing that someone would notice moving from one oil to another would be shifting smoothness. I had no change in mine. Which was a good thing coming from a more expensive semi synthetic. Shifts buttery smooth with the rotella 15w-40

 

Also there has been no extra metal shavings on my magnetic oil drain plug while doing oil changes. That could be a major indicator as well I guess.

 

Typically I always answer this question with, use brands that are designed to be used with wet clutch systems. It has been argued that most other oils have friction modifiers that can lead to clutch slippage as well as additives that can lead to premature disc wear. The additives Shell uses to remove soot is one of these, keep in mind, this oil was designed for diesel big rigs.

 

Typically I always answer this question with, use brands that are designed to be used with wet clutch systems. It has been argued that most other oils have friction modifiers that can lead to clutch slippage as well as additives that can lead to premature disc wear. The additives Shell uses to remove soot is one of these, keep in mind, this oil was designed for diesel big rigs.

I also note that bowtie. And think about the main dif between a rig and these bikes. the rig never breaks 3krpm and runs cooler. These 450s run around 10krpm and for sure get hotter. I am not saying there could be a problem just stating the big difference between the two. And something people over look also is that there are some pretty tight tolerences in these engines on our bikes. a 15weight oil is thicker when warm and thus slows down flow between tight spots, equaling less power and lubrication. For an example like on some of our newer engines calling for a 0w30 weight. If you run anything heavier over time it will burn them up. Like i said this is just an example of how different oils work and tolerences aka(the gaps between moving parts)8)

 

I run it as well as my buddies

 

I was speaking 100% on additives and what they are designed to do. Considering that these bikes run a wet clutch and the oil is shared between engine and the clutch fibers, the last thing I want is those fibers wearing faster than normal and getting those fibers/dust mixed into the oil thicker then originally tested or anticipated by the Yamaha engineers and potentially plugging an oil galley/port.

 

I haven't looked for myself...does Yamaha recommend synthetic or is this an upgrade we've all migrated to?

If you consider that contaminates from the sand and trails inevitably gain access to the lube system, and add clutch contaminates to the picture, isn't our oil life diminished by debris long before natural breakdown of either mineral or synthetic lube?

I figure we're changing our oil long before the lubrication properties of the oil is diminished.

 

I have ran the Shell Rotella 15w-40 white bottle oil in a few YFZ's, and also my son's 60 hp 450R tranny side for a few years now. No issues.

I think, based on what I've read, the additive package for diesel oils is similar to an ATV oil.

Regards,
Rog

 

it does have the jaso when looking for something thats wet clutch safe. Maybe theres more to it that i dont know. I run this stuff now also. Right now i have 6.5 hours on the oil thats in it now, and when putting it on my skin its just a nice brown, not even close to dark or black yet. Gonna go atleast 8 hours per change, seems really good and thats from duning only which is hard on the clutch. clean oil this long can only be a good sign of clutch wear and good ring seal.

 

You cant argue with input like that.

Yes the dirt, and clutch matter is what makes the oil black so fast. It for sure still has its lubercating function just a lot of bad dirty meterial moving around.