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Replacing The Waterpump Seals.

162K views 141 replies 92 participants last post by  Sheerider11  
#1 ·
This is a little step-by-step on how to replace the waterpump seals on the YFZ450.

Part #'s first:

Bearing~93306-00105-00 (B6001)
Large oil seal~93102-11008-00
Small oil seal~93102-12106-00 (SD-12-22-5-HS)
Impeller~5GR-12458-00-00
Side case gasket~5TA-15462-00-00

If you smell anti-freeze or see anti-freeze around the frame or the skid plate on the right side of the quad (sitting on it) more then likely the seals for the waterpump need to be replaced and the impeller is scored which caused the seals to fail.


Location of the waterpump.



You must remove the engine oil and drain the anti-freeze at least out of the waterpump housing....you don't need to drain the entire cooling system.

You must also remove the upper and lower oil lines in order to remove the side case.



First, remove the waterpump cover, oil filter cover, oil filter and upper and lower oil lines. Be careful, there's a small o-ring on the lower oil line and make sure it's reinstalled when you put everything back together.



Remove the side case that houses the impeller, oil seals and bearing.



Just a pic of what the motor looks like with the side case removed.




Remove the impeller and inspect the impeller shaft for "grooves". Replace as necessary. To remove the oil seals pry the outer one out with a screwdriver. Removing the bearing is probably the most difficult part of the job. I tapped it out from the outside in using a screwdriver and then pryed the inner seal out.



Use some lithium grease on the seals when reassembling everything and when the seals get reinstalled....the springs face AWAY from each other or basically the springs are in the fluid...oil and anti-freeze.

Torque everything back to specification according to the service manual.
 
#2 ·
was your impeller bad, i have been told that the shaft will be bad also, what did you replace?
 
#5 ·
Originally posted by YFZdream450@Aug 5 2006, 05:13 PM
I just got the seals....Should i get the bearing and impellar shaft too...or u think ill be alright just replacing the seals?...
[snapback]465055[/snapback]​
The bearing is probably OK but inspect the impeller shaft for scoring...if you can feel grooves in it it may be a good idea to replace it.
 
#6 ·
Originally posted by YFZ450alterego@Aug 5 2006, 02:34 PM
The bearing is probably OK but inspect the impeller shaft for scoring...if you can feel grooves in it it may be a good idea to replace it.
[snapback]465065[/snapback]​
Cool, i happened to be at the dealer and thought id pick up the stuff to fix the leak and thought id only need the seals. I had to order them and barely got them yesterday. I didnt want to go back and order more stuff and wait. I wanted to do it today. oh well, ill check for grooves, hopefully not though. Thanks
 
#7 ·
do they make a hi flo impellar like the ones for the banshee?
 
#8 ·
Do you think the warrenty will cover this?
How much did you guys spend on this?
 
#9 ·
YFZATEREGO, thanks for the post, great info. I just completed the rebuild last night. I just need to put oil and coolant along with the header back on and I'm ready to ride. I went ahead and replaced everything in there, the seals, bearing, shaft, impeller and of course the case gasket. It totaled $132 parts and $64 for header gasket, oil, coolant and oil filter and and took about 2 hours. :icon_biggrin:
 
#10 ·
Originally posted by rageracer@Sep 3 2006, 02:47 AM
Do you think the warrenty will cover this?
How much did you guys spend on this?
[snapback]479272[/snapback]​
If it's within 6 months (I think that's what the factory warranty is) Yamaha should cover it.


PHXDUCWI....glad this write-up helped you out...that's why I do them. :smile:
 
#14 ·
I replaced the seals and bearing and am still getting a constant drip?? :wtf:
[/b]
Did you replace the impeller shaft? If not, did you make sure it's not scored?

If you replaced everything and it's still leaking did you make sure the springs on the seals were facing away from each other and they are towards the fluid? Did you use some lithium grease on the seals before you installed them?
 
#15 ·
Thanks for the reply.
Yes, I replaced the shaft. I used some lithium grease on the inside of the seals where the shaft would be.
The seals...? I am sure I put them in the right way. I think? I put them in the way they came out. I think? Now I am thinking I put them in backwards. That would also allow coolant to get in the oil if I put them in backwards, right?
Crap! I am hoping to make to a race next weekend in Miami. If I did put them in backwards, are they salvagable? After install I ran it at an idle for quite some time to heat to temp.A couple passes around the property and back to the barn. I saw the coolant right away.

Thank's again for the help.

edit: tore it apart this morning and found I had the outer seal in backwards. Popped it out and flipped it over. Problem solved. :)
Awesome site!
 
#16 ·
Hey alter, did you buy the stuff from Bob at magnolia tractor? Just wondering how much the kit alone was.
Thanks
 
#17 ·
Hey alter, did you buy the stuff from Bob at magnolia tractor? Just wondering how much the kit alone was.
Thanks
[/b]
I actually got it from www.dgy.com

It wasn't a kit...I just pieced it together from the parts diagram. $50 or so including shipping. :smile:
 
#18 ·
Awesome information. I tried this rebuild over this last weekend only to go from a slow drip from the weep hole to almost a spray when I revved it up. From the sounds of it I have installed the seals backwards (all 3 times I have reinstalled trying to fix it again). So tomorrow I will turn them both around and hope that my problem is solved. To bad that last 3 days I have been looking for this info online GOOGLE has not sent me to YFZCentral.

Also, I believe 93102-12106 has been superceeded by 93102-12321, just FYI.
 
#19 ·
the one torgue that you are really going to have to know is for the TOP oil line don't over tighten or you will be in trouble. i'm dealing with that now...[/b]

14 ft. lbs for this oil line into the side case and
13 ft. lbs. for the other 2 bolts on this same hard oil line.
10 ft. lbs. for the impeller on the shaft.
5.8 ft. lbs. for the oil line bolt into the lower side case.
7.2 ft. lbs. for all other side case bolts and oil filter and water pump covers related to this repair.
 
#20 ·
Ok I know there are many of you who have had the water pump seal problem so hasn't anyone really thought why this happens? How does the shaft become damaged? My theory is that dirt/debris enters through the weep hole and causes the premature ware. I have now done the seal replacement 2 times in less than 12 months. I haven't ridden very much over the time period so I can't say that it is a use issue. I was thinking about tapping the weep hole and plugging it with a threaded plug. Has anyone done this?
 
#24 ·
Not sure what you're asking. I know Yamaha updated the parts a while ago (not sure what they updated, maybe the seals) but if you go to www.dgy.com and look at the break-down for the waterpump you can get all the parts there. That's what I did...I just provided stock numbers for the tutorial when I ordered my stuff.
 
#26 ·
this may sound stupid, but why exactly do you have to take the entire crankcase cover off? why cant you get to everything just from the water pump cover?[/b]
To get to the inner oil seal and to get the impeller shaft out.