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Discussion Starter #1
I live in Jacksonville, Florida and have a quick question for you jetting experts. Let me start by saying I have read all of DADDOG'S informative site. I'm wondering how the climate effects the jetting configuration?
Here it gets mild cold winters (like now) and blazing hot summers... Will I need to rejet each season to run properly? I am about to rejet my quad after it's first dealer service with having valves tightened and had these remaining questions:

My set-up after jetting will be:
K&N w/o lid, HMF full exhaust w/o Q-core, and proposed jets as followed:

new main jet 170 or 175 (suggestions...?)
new piliot jet 48 (shoud I try a 45 first...?)
stock needle clip #5
stock air mixture screw (leave in stock position...?)

Thanx for everyone's input a eagerness to help other riders... :D
 

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I would start off trying the 45P and 172-175 main. Also get the NCVQ or yz450f needle use it the 4th pos. Took some of the flat spot out of my mid range acceleration. Definatly get a zip tye fuel adj. screw it will help so much you don't even understand. With a simple twist of the finger tips you can adjust you bottom end acc. or the blip of the throttle. Definatly a must for fine tuning in my opinion. I would never go with out. You will never know were you want your jetting if you can not adjust that fuel screw. Make sure you use an outerwear cover with that K&N. By the way how much did they charge for the valve adjustment? :rock
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, the dealer charged me 134.00 to tighten the valves and replace the "break-in oil" with new. They said it should only need that once after being broke in or every 100 hours or so. But the new air srcew position, should be approx. 1.5 or 2 turns for that configuration, right?
I was wondering about the Zip-ty, thanx for the tip.
The alba blue K&N outerwear is nice also..,
great intake kit for the price.
 

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I use the NOSS intake kit it is really good if you want to use your airbox for extra protection like in mud or snow, light rain. The inside diameter of the noss flange is larger than the alba kit and the filter is a little larger too! As far as their oil change recommendation I personally would not let it go that long. I just watch my oil smell it for fuel, sometimes it will get in your oil if your rich or load up on trail. If it starts to look real dark change it. I do mine after every other weekend trip. If I have day rides like every 6 days of riding. You stock up on filters pretty cheap half the price of the dealer on ebay. it uses the same filter as the yz450f do a search on yz450f filters. Also I have always used Mobil 1 synthetic great protection. Go one more change to let it break in before using synthetic. As far as the fuel screw, carbs vary if you get that fuel screw it will take ten minutes to figure out were you need it
 

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Do you guys recommend adjusting the valves after break in, or is that another Yamaha ploy to get you to spend $? I will do it myself, but wanted to wait to check them until I do the cam mod. And, I want to do the filter, exhaust, and jets the same time as the cam mod, so I get a big jump all at the same time. So, in short, is it bad to put off checking the valves for a little bit while I save some $ for mods?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
With mine, after the initial 30 days of breakin her, I actually heard a slight tapping on
the bottom end pick up and noticed a faint wierd smell. Which led we to believe the dealer's pitch - to not go too long before getting them tightened up. Besides, if yama was just trying to get you in the shop all the time they would suggest tightening more frequently than once in the service manual.. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Bump.
As far as the dealer recamendation, I was refering to the Valve adjustment,
not the oil change..
Heinriken you are very right about the oil!
;)
 
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