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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was wondering if anyone here uses the Maxima 100% Synthetic oil and if so can they tell any performance improvments or easier on the engine? I know it is about 12 bucks a quart or something. I right now use a synthetic blend which is supposed to keep the engine cooler and the clutch plates cooler. Anyone use the 100% synthetic and is it worth it?
 

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im not too sure what to run either, and there are arguments for both sides. if you cant decide what to beleive, you cant go wrong running Yamalube... :re
 

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Not sure, I run yamalube. I know that if you do use synthetic, you should always use it. The synthetic tends to lub the gaskets more, when you switch back to regular oil, the gaskets will dry up over time, causing leaks. I'd stick to one or the other. :lol
 

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I missed the last oil debate so here's my chance.

I saw a lot of guys running the red cap Mobil 1 synthetic oil. I dont have a bottle of it in front of me now but I'd be willing to bet that if you checked the API rating it would be SL. Yamalube is rated SJ. Im going to cut and paste instead of typing all of this out.
The Vanishing Zinc and Phosphorous

It is a fact than many SL oils now contain lower levels of ZDDP (the zinc/phosphorous extreme pressure additive) and that is a big concern to a lot of motorcyclists. ZDDP is a last resort protection against metal-to-metal contact. Whereas a few years ago the zinc level was typically 0.12% to 0.15% in SG automobile oils, some SL oils now have as little as 0.05%. However, this in itself may not be a problem since normal operation of a motorcycle on the street would never result in metal-to-metal contact any more than it would in your automobile. Remember these SL oils meet the most demanding protection requirements of modern, high-reving, powerful 4-stroke automobile engines (among others). And there is no reason to believe the lubrication requirements of street motorcycles is measurably different.

However, if you race you probably need higher levels of ZDDP and should use appropriate oils or ZDDP additives.
Thats the difference between the 2. That last line is this author's opinion

Also, I should add that for years I always used Castrol GTX 20w50 (SL) in the tranny/clutch of every 2 stroke bike and ATV I've ever owned (currently in my 250R). Stuart Toomey recomends the castrol in the instructions for his banshee clutch.
 

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AND If I chose to run a full synthetic (no friction modifiers of coarse) I sure as heck wouldn't pay 12 bucks a quart!!!!!!!!! Maxima is probably buying this oil from Mobil, relabeling it, and hitting you in the head for 12 bucks! Wht not? Thats what Honda does.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I was running Yamalube however my dealer reccamended to switch to some sort of synthetic because he said the clutch plates were really blue, which means they were getting to hot. I was not sure of switching but it sounds like synthetic may even be worse in some cases? I guess I will just stick to the stuff I use now. Here is the oil I switched to from Yamalube:

Motul-Motorcycle Oil
Synthetic Blend with Technosynthese
10W40
For use with or without a wet clutch and in integrated gearbox. Perofect for use in Off-Road bikes and ATVs. Also it has a red cap.
 

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Been using mobil 1 for years no problems $4.00 a quart. :rock
 

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Originally posted by bunkerking217@Jan 4 2004, 09:49 PM
im not too sure what to run either, and there are arguments for both sides. if you cant decide what to beleive, you cant go wrong running Yamalube... :re
just use yamalube and you wont have to worry about it. in my experiences synthetic it did not do much but it is up to you.
 
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