YFZ Central banner

1 - 20 of 345 Posts

Super Moderator
3,990 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2014 YFZ 450R Trail Machine

*Elka Stage 5 front shocks with Roll Design WORCS springs and valving
*Elka Stage 5 rear shock with Roll Design WORCS springs and valving using OEM link
*Walsh MX a-arms and caster bracket
*Walsh +1 stem
*Walsh stem kit for Precision anti vibe clamps
*Walsh rear brake pedal extension
*ODI Rogue lock on grips..silver locks and black grips 130mm length
*Precision Pro Elite Steering Stabilizer
*Precision anti vibe clamps
*Vortex ECU
*Rekluse Radius CX
*2009 Clutch Basket with rubber dampening system versus the exploding springs of the 2014+Slipper clutches!
*Streamline front brake lines oem length with MX a arms
*Yoshimura RS 2 Pro Titanium with spark arrestor
*GYTR hour meter with Peak Racing Products logo sticker
*Ricochet swing arm skid
*(2) TM Design Works magnetic oil drain plugs
*Antigravity AG-801 8 cell 5000 mah lipo with quick disconnect connectors for Vortex parasite drain protection.
*DWT G3 Front wheel 10" 4+1 single bead lock
*DWT G3 Rear wheel 9" single bead lock
*Maxxis RAZR 2..Front 21x7-10
*Maxxis RAZR .....Rear 20x10-9
*2013 Cable Holder for AIS delete
*NGK Iridium CR8EIX......spark plug
*IMS XC 3.8 gallon fuel tank.....Used Peak Racing Products tank cut template!
*RJR pegs and heel guards
*Peak Racing Products Vortex mount
*Peak Racing Products Elka Stage 5 rear reservoir bracket
*Peak Racing Products greaseable stem clamp
*Peak Racing Products +2 inch electrical cables from wire harness up to grips
*Peak Racing Products Intake and carbon fiber airbox with a GYTR Uni air filter
*Peak Racing Products poly case saver
*Peak Racing Products "Stealth" Breather Box
*Peak Racing Products fuel drip pan delete spacers
*Peak Racing Products AIS block off cap
*Peak Racing Products Poly Belly Skid Plate
*Peak Racing Products Screen Saver for the dash lights!

*Removed OEM front brake bracket near steering stem block
*Vinyl tube over rear Elka reservoir line
*Custom rubber bumpers for rear tail light
*Front wheel rock guards removed
*3m clear bra...a arms, headlights, engine cases, frame, tail light

Future Mods:

*Factory 43 XC bumper?
*Rpm Dominator 2 axle
*Pump gas port job
**XC A Arms and PEP, AXIS, Motowoz or BNR Fox coil over suspension?

Special thanks to KB Motorsports for the great deals!

Walsh a arms and caster bracket

I did some clean up on my new Walsh front end.


Tech Note: I went from a 50mm long oem lower shock mount bolt to a 60mm....Lots of extra threads to buy me a little time if the nut shakes loose....I'm going to try drilling a hole in it and thread a small cotter pin on the end or double nut it....Trying to decide....

I have to say the Walsh plastic caps fit in the lower shock bolt holes nice and tight....I like it they aren't going to fall out!

Super Moderator
3,990 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Streamline Brake Lines

You will need to route your lines through the arms if you don't want your brake lines rubbing on your radiator shrouds and tie rods.

Tech Note: if you ever buy Streamline Brake lines always buy the oem length...NEVER buy the +1 even if you have a MX setup because they are way too long. In addition, even with the OEM width R lines they are about 2 inches to long! I wonder if a set of X lines would work well on a MX width quad?

Tech Note: I put 5/16th ID vinyl hose over my lines and when the clamps are tightened down the brake lines won't slide in the mounts.


Super Moderator
3,990 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Precision Stabilizer

Precision does a pretty good job with their instructions which include: installation, setup, and servicing with intervals! Very cool. The weak area is the installation they could elaborate more on that and offer better photos!

The stabilizer is a pain to mount because it gets tight in there with the Walsh caster bracket, brake T, and stabilizer......I used three 6 inch socket extensions and came down along the stem and through the electrical to get to the 4 mount bolts and a long 5mm hex for the Allen bolts.

I recommend sliding the Stabilizer in place and center it in the frame and lightly tighten the bolts down on the front bracket. Then I would turn your wheels full LEFT and mount the clamp to your stem. Tighten the Allen screw down until you can see 4 threads. Then turn your handlebars full right until your lower stem hits the steering stop on your frame. While lifting up on the clamp tighten down the Allen a little. Look at the arm and the corner of the clamp they shouldn't be touching! If so loosen the Allen bolt and rotate toward you until you can see a 2mm gap then push up on the clamp and tighten the bolt down. You now should be able to turn your wheels full RIGHT with no binding of the arm and clamp. Now I had to move the stabilizer around a few times to get it right so if everything looks good tighten the rear bolts to 6.5 lbs and the fronts to 10.5lbs. In addition, I would recommend using loctite on these 4 bolts. You can get to the front bolts by removing the two relays where your electrical is under your hood by using 3 six inch long socket extensions and the rear bolts by removing your fuel tank and going along your stem. The clamp is torqued to 13 lbs! Do not exceed this or you will dimple the clamp! Don't forget to tighten the grub screw in the back.


Super Moderator
3,990 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Elka Stage 5's (Direct from Elka Canada!)

I got desperate and chopped half my tool pocket off. I won't mount my new white fenders until I have my custom bracket machined!

This is a rough in...I need to sand and shape it a little better! I saved half the pocket for splash protection.....Sucks that Elka can't include a correct bracket! If you look close you will see my modified Elka Bracket! If you are really looking hard you will see my custom air box which allows you to still use your rear tail light and ecu mounting location!

Walsh Link

When I got my Walsh link I ordered the zinc plated version and I got a full black link? Sent it back and then got the raw aluminum knuckle and a silver painted pushrod? Gave up and decided to keep it ... I still can't figure out what was going on with my order?

The Walsh link went in nicely however, it is impossible to get a standard grease gun hose on the zerk! I think I will change out the zerk to a 90 degree and point it at my rear brake pedal. There is plenty of space to get your hose in behind the pedal. The machining and welds are really nice!

Tech notes: on the Walsh Link all bolts are torqued to 40lbs and the small jam nut that takes the place of the cotter pin is torqued to 20lbs per Nate. I'm buying a new bolt for this because the jam nut only has a few threads to sit on because of the large cotter pin holes.

Walsh Stem And Precision Anti Vibe Clamps

One thing you need to know is that if you buy a longer stem you will no longer be able to use a funnel to fill your gas tank! The taller stem raises your bars over your fuel tank opening and even if you buy a +1/+1 stem it will still be a problem. The only solution will be is to buy a new gas can that has a flexible hose and hopefully some kind of filter. These companies don't warn you of this stuff before you buy so hopefully I've given you something to think about!

I polished the Walsh aluminum anti vibe washers and it made the stem look like it cost a million bucks!....Oh wait it did cost a million bucks....LOL....

Tech Note: I used red Loctite and torqued the stem nut to 30lbs.

I forgot to post this picture. I removed the bracket that holds the OEM front brake line and I routed my throttle cable between the frame and tank to create enough length so the cable doesn't bind because of my Precision clamps and +1 stem. If I had routed the cable in the OEM route the cable would be to short and I would have to upgrade to a Motion Pro +2 cable.

I made a cool bracket that holds the cable to this spot. I removed it by using a Dremel and a grinding drum to grind the rivet heads off which took about 5 minutes.

My +2 Wire Harnesses
I absolutely love these wire harnesses! They look better than OEM!
I've noticed 90% of the guys with aftermarket stems are over tensioning their electrical cords.


Super Moderator
3,990 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
ODI Rogue Grips
I'm very happy with these grips! The rubber is super soft and spongy feeling and they have deep mud grooves to improve your grip. You will want the 130mm version of theses grips and I had to move my controls in 10mm. In addition, I had to drill the small rivet out of my OEM bars on the brake side and remove the black plastic spacer.

Tech Note: You will need a new 2.5mm Allen wrench to mount them or you stand a chance of stripping the rare sized bolts! I found out the hard way and had to buy replacements from ODI! I recommend Bondus non pivoting Allen wrenches for this! I torqued the bolts down until there was a hairline gap between the two sides of each clamp.

Walsh Rear Brake Pedal Extension

If you wear boots and have a hard time finding the rear brake pedal this is what you need!

I used a Dremel with a cut off wheel to cut the pedal then I bent it out of the way and ground down the rivet with the cut off wheel. Then I used a coarse sanding drum to finish removing the head of the rivet. I pulled on the pedal and it popped off. I then used a punch and hammer to knock the remaining rivet out the the pedal arm. One bolt and the new pad is mounted to the arm! In person this looks great! Functional and mean!....LOL

Super Moderator
3,990 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
AIS Delete

I've been asked about 50 times what my AIS delete cap looks like and where it is tied down so here you go!.....

2013 cable holder

By any chance have I thanked KB Motorsports for the great deals and class leading customer service? Thank you Ken!.....LOL. ;)

Super Moderator
3,990 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Antigravity AG-801 Battery

If you are looking to save weight and space this is the battery!

AG-801 Technical Details:
240 Cranking Amps @ 32° verse 130 of the OEM (Cranking Amps are the power the battery has)
9Ah (PB Eq) verse the 6Ah of the OEM battery (Amp Hours are the Capacity of a Battery)
Dimensions and Weight
(LxWxH) 4.25″ x 2.25″ x 3.75″ (Height is measured to the top of the terminal bolt heads)
WEIGHT: 1 lb 9 oz verse the OEM lead acid battery at 4.6lbs!

•Available with a universal right or left-side negative terminal
•Adhesive backed foam included for easy installation
•Ultra-lightweight and high-power Lithium Nano-Phosphate motor-sport battery
•Can hold a charge up to a year provided there are no parasitic drains. Note: Vortex users run your ATV once a week or disconnect one of your battery cables!! If the battery gets below 10.5 volts it can kill it!
•Built with high quality components with unbreakable brass terminals
•Excellent for every day use in bikes up to 600cc
•Good for race use in bikes up to 1000cc
Made in the USA
•3 Year Warranty

If you are using the smallest battery possible for your bike to save weight (for example for race use a 4 cell in a 600cc bike, or an 8-cell in a 1000cc bike) you may find in 50 degree weather and below it may be sluggish initially. But with each attempt to start the battery actually warms itself from the amp discharge and gets back its full strength. If you often ride in weather below the 50s we recommend going up one or two sizes on the battery, this will give you more cranking amps to get power even if its very cold.
You can ruin the battery if you let it drain to below 10.5 volts!!! This is true of ANY battery, lead/acid or lithium. Draining a battery to this level will damage the battery cells. This is not a concern if you remember to turn off your ignition, or turn off any accessories that are not ignition switched and monitor your battery is you plan on not riding frequently. You should also make sure your vehicle does not have an “parasitic drain” or “short circuit”. A “parasitic drain” is something like an accessory that is pulling energy from the battery even though the ignition is “off” this can drain your battery below 10.5V and ruin it if you store the bike or don’t ride it to keep it charged … Sometimes a short can also be the cause of a drain on the battery though all accessories are “off”. For the best battery life you should monitor your battery and if you do not ride for a time make sure you disconnect the battery or put it on a lithium maintenance charger.
Also important is that OVER-CHARGING above 14.8V can damage Lead or Lithium batteries. For this reason older bikes should make sure their electrical system and specifically the Voltage Regulator is operating correctly or you will find yourself damaging your batteries if your bikes charging systems voltage to the battery is going above 15V.
DO NOT ABUSE the battery… These batteries express extremely high amperage and can get over-heated if you keep cranking a bike repeatedly over 7 seconds multiple times in a row. Though they are made to start your bike with fantastic results they can become over heated if you keep trying to crank a bike that just isn’t starting.
(Precautions from Antigravity website)



If you're interested in the OEM sized version of this battery you can check out photos of it at the below link.


Super Moderator
3,990 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Yoshimura RS 2 Pro titanium with spark arrestor.

This is an absolutely awesome looking exhaust system and the titanium makes it very light. It mounts using a floating system of rubber grommets and springs which prevents cracking due to frame flex. I had zero problems with fitment and the titanium version doesn't require you to cut your radiator hose. If you buy the titanium version and need a spark arrestor you will have to buy one separately for $25 because the titanium is the full race version of this exhaust. I love the titanium because the finish stays better looking over stainless steel and titanium changes colors! In addition, titanium doesn't hold the heat that a stainless system produces. I currently have 135 hours plus on mine without any problems!

Tech Note: The RS 2's comes with a nice spring pulling tool so you don't have to go out and buy one!


Super Moderator
3,990 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
GYTR Hour Meter
I have this mounted in the recess above the muffler using the included velcro which works very well at holding it down and dampening vibration!
This unit works very well! When your engine is on it displays your rpm and when it is off it displays your hours.

Two TM Designworks Magnetic Oil Drain Plugs
These aluminum oil drain plugs work great! Since they are aluminum you have to use a torque wrench when tightening them. Yamaha has a torque rating of 14lbs for these bolts however, I torque them to 12lbs for safety. It's surprising how much junk sticks to these magnetics!

I love my DWT'S I filled them with 5.5lbs of air and a month later they are still at 5.5lbs. This would of never happened with my Hiper Tech 3's which would be flat in the first week...LOL

Cool video at 2 minutes in they tell you about work hardened aluminum and DWT's heat treating in house!


Maxxis Tires
The RAZR rear tire tread is a little taller than the OEM rear tires and the sidewalls are significantly stiffer. The RAZR 2 fronts have significantly taller tread over OEM. The front tire contact patch is more rounded versus the flatter MX style tires. I believe in most XC terrains that this will work great however, in decomposed gravel they don't grip as well as the OEM tires or possibly the Maxxis XC's.

Tech Note: these tires are taller and will raise your ride height by 1" so you will have to readjust your shocks to the correct height! If you are mounting your tires I used WD 40 on the wheel and tire bead. This worked for the front tires however, it didn't do as well for the rears. I ended up wiping a ton of grease on the tire bead and wheel and running the tire up to 36 psi which is the max seating pressure printed on the sidewall. This worked great for one tire however, it didn't work on the other rear wheel! I deflated the tire and broke the bead with my hands and ended up re-inflating it 7 more times! Each time you do this it stretches the tire out a little until I finally got it to seat! If you run your pressure above 36psi you should do it in a tire cage and I wouldn't exceed 40psi! You can be hurt badly if you over inflate a tire and it explodes! In addition, many tire shops won't even touch beadlock wheels! I called Maxxis USA and they didn't recommend using a tie down to seat your tires and in some cases you can damage the tire! Be careful and use your head when mounting tires!

Tech Note: If you guys need an awesome tool to remove your tires from your wheels without scuffing them up this is the tool to have! It's compact and easily fits in a toolbox so you can take it with you. You can view vids on YouTube on how easy it is to use.


Super Moderator
3,990 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I use BG44k periodically to clean the fuel system and burn the carbon off the valves and piston and I run super unleaded 91 pump gas.

89 Posts
WOW! Id be to scared to scratch up all those nice parts.....Its hard to think that you "actually" ride that cause it looks better than the day it left Yamaha by a mile! Very Nice ride man....very nice indeed...

Super Moderator
3,990 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I love the Antigravity battery! It starts my bike a lot faster than the OEM lead acid battery.
1 - 20 of 345 Posts