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Discussion Starter #1
I'm redoing (yes, I'm doing it) my entire wiring system in an effort to simplify things. If you'd like me to keep track of what I've done in a clear format, reply to this post. You guys that are going kick start only will find this very usefull.

I won't be complete w/ it until I have the engine working and can see that all systems are working as well. Because I have no motor, I have no functioning magneto to test w/. I can test continuity, but that's it. I have taken all the "wraping" off the wiring system - took about an 1.5 hours. There are connectors/wires all over the place.

I'm doing away with the:

off/lo/high on the lights (they'll run high only) :blah
the keyed switch :blah
the "run/stop" switch :blah
may go around the TORS (if I think my luck will hold out) :blah :blah
etc. :blah

It will operate just like a bike when I'm done w/ it and will be minus a ton of connectors and wires. :lol
 

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I have been concidering the kick start to just loose some weight so a step by step of both the kick sart and the wireing would be nice....
 

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Please take pics and note everything cause I am very interested in this.

Thanks
 

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Yup.....as soon as I get my kick start kit, I will be doing this aswell. I've already taken a long look at the wiring system, and it is not that hard to accomplish. I will also like to see how you do yours so I have something to compare my set up to.
 

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Originally posted by YFZ-suprfly@Sep 26 2003, 12:34 PM
yea i want to do a kick start to as soon as i see a good step by step so i dont muff shit up!
ditto. :lol :lol
 

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I cant help but thing that this would be a golden opportunity for some manuf. to come up with a wireing harness and some instructions to eliminate all the electrical fluff like lights, key and switch etc etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've got the wiring system figured out with the expection of (1) thing and I'm pretty confident with it anyway. That "thing" is the input to the CDI from the clutch lever and neutral switch. On my wife's machine and yours too, the electrical starting system takes an input from one of these (via a relay) saying that either the clutch lever is pulled in or that the machine is in neutral. One of these conditions must be present in order for the starter to... well, start.

I don't have and never have had the clutch switch on mine. The starting circuit cut-off relay is gone too. The neutral switch wire (sky blue in color) enters the case very near the shift lever. I'm confident I can eliminate this wire because of the facts above and I know I have started my machine in gear (clutch lever pulled obviously). It's a mof to kick start in gear sometimes. So I don't see taking that wire off as a big deal, but I'll do it once the machine is running. You can simply pull the neutral switch off - it's really easy.

I WILL be able to do all the things I noted in the initial post witht he exception of the TORS (throttle override system). The TORS works via inputs from both the carb and throttle switches. I disconnected the system on my wifes YFZ last night and the bike starts/runs fine, it just dies @ idle like it should with no TORS.

The "TORS" consists of (3) parts:

throttle switch (inside big can on thumb throttle)
carb switch (lower part of carb)
throttle postion sensor (upper part of carb)

I won't get into the specifics, but I just need to decide if I want mine to idle or not w/o having to run the throttle a bit @ idle. I'm used to doing this in karts and since I don't have a fan, etc. dying @ idle may be a good thing. I already kill the bike @ idle. We'll see.

I'm gonna do my own CAD drawing of the revised wiring and make a PDF out of it to share. I won't complete the drawing until I know the system works and I won't know the system works until the machine fires again. I won't know the machine fires again for about another week or so.

If you've seen complete wiring diagram (last page in service manual), you can get rid of at least (24) of the (32) components that inlcudes all lights. You will need to add a kill switch.

I'm gonna leave my lights for now, but the entire electrical system will be much much cleaner/leaner when I'm done.
 

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sorry guys, but if i go with the kickstart, my bike would say TRX450r on the side....nothing against Yamaha, I just work at a Honda shop and the only reason im keeping the yfz is because of the magic button... :|
 

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To disable the TORS just follow the two wires from the thumb throttle to the black box and disable the tors by shorting them together.
No more tors then

works great.

the wires to the carb also change the timing in the processor so eliminating them MAY cause rough running. I dont know for sure on that.. I would leave them.
 

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here this may help.
the tors wires from the throttle need to be connected or shorted to each other for the TORS to be diconnected and the machine to still idle.
secondly you can disarm the TPS switch from the carb and what this essentially does is give the CDI full ignition timing at all times. actually gives more power and has not bothered the way the machines run as of yet.
 

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How do you go about disarming the TPS switch??
 

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selector glad to see your getting your quad back together after what happened. please let me know when yo get it done & how you did it i might have to do that to mine when i get it thanks

wildman
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Done:

I was able to do everything I wanted to do including the TORS. Handlebars look real clean now w/ only (3) cables:

front brake
throttle
clutch

Machine seems to run fine, but I won't know for sure until I hit the sand.
 

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you guys think this would be good/cool? I might try to mount my starter/light/kill button down on the frame somewhere within reach like you see some 400ex's do. and then use some sort of kill switch as a start button?
 

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Originally posted by bunkerking217@Oct 8 2003, 07:21 PM
sorry guys, but if i go with the kickstart, my bike would say TRX450r on the side....nothing against Yamaha, I just work at a Honda shop and the only reason im keeping the yfz is because of the magic button... :|
well, not the only reason, but one of the darn good ones. For trail riding and rec use, keep the Magic button.

for racing, do what you want to lighten, quicken....it.
 

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Selector,

Got any updates on the success/failure of your re-wiring? How about that CAD drawing / PDF file you were talking about?

Any regrets?

Just curious! :lol
 
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