There is a drag racing event next month in my town and I want to do good. The track is for snowmobiles and atv and it is 500 foot long. I'll be racing with 22" tires and I'll run some tests with a 15t front sproket also. Do you think I'll hit my top end speed to early in the race? And how should I set up my suspension? Should I set the compression and rebound at their hardest or will that make the quad wheelie? I just want to show a couple of Honda riders what the YFZ is all about!
Drag set up
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I would think you would hit top speed depending on how long the race is.
As far as suspension, you need to be low, but not wide, and longer to help it from wheeling. If you have a lowering kit, that would be great, if not put the preload all the way to the top with probably little reboud and little compression.
As far as suspension, you need to be low, but not wide, and longer to help it from wheeling. If you have a lowering kit, that would be great, if not put the preload all the way to the top with probably little reboud and little compression.
The front gets strapped so the quad will not wheelie as easy. As soon as you hit the gas the quad has to pick up the ENTIRE weight of the front end and get no help from momentum from the front suspention rising up. Body english is very important depending on tire selection. With a 10 paddle Hauler I have to be on the bars and the tank to keep it down. Good takeoff but very sloppy. Then I tried my current combo of Kenda Geckos. Too far forward and you spin. Too far back and you hook 100%. I like these because when I drag against other guys, I can tailor my takeoff from easy to set on kill. Also, lowering can help. Your center of gravity is lower to the ground. This will help a little with wind resistance......Maybe I am going too far. But seriously this MAY also help in keeping the quad on the ground and transferring weight to the rear ??????????? I never tested it. Try this..... first find a tire that works well in all conditions of the track. Then strap down the front but not all the way. You need some suspenton for any bumps. Crank UP the rear. Make it stiff so you don't squat and help to cause it to wheelie. Adjust your riding position for enough traction so the quad launches whith the wheels up to be a little higher than horizontal with the ground. Work from there. It is not a bad thing if you lose a race to tune your quad for a future win. This is not a definite setup only something that may work to try. Most races I do is only done with body position. Other guys I know do ashfalt 1/4 mile and there is TOO much traction.
You will be good with the 15 front and in 500 ft will probably get about 60 mph. You will not top out but try the 14 also. Tell us what time difference you get.
You will be good with the 15 front and in 500 ft will probably get about 60 mph. You will not top out but try the 14 also. Tell us what time difference you get.
Sweet! Thanks for all the info. I picked up a set 22" spider tracks(bald) that I will stud with snowmobile studs(62 per wheel). Then I'll head down to a field and mesure 500ft and start praticing and tuning. The race is in a few weeks so I'll keep myself in good shape also.
G
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·2nd gear starts will blow emm away, but you have to practice. you can let it whelie or ur done.
Be careful with the 2nd gear starts. Depending on traction and gearing, you may lug the motor down and leave slower or start smoking the clutch. Also put more air in the front tires. There will be less rolling resistance. Even if you can go with a skinnier front tire. Also get the lightest rear wheel and tire combo you can. You want as little rotatioal mass as possible. This will help you get off the line and accelerate quicker. Try this also. Get rid of the stock O-ring chain and use a regular non-O-ring chain for racing. There is less HP loss. Practice powershifting. A shift should be at the point that there is no rpm raise or drop and drop for ONLY the engagement of the next gear. Basically you click up as you pull in the clutch a little and then let it slip out of your fingers. The handle should be set up as far out as possible. You will be only pulling it in about an inch really SLAPPING it in. All in under a second. Down the road if you will be doing this seriously an aluminum everything in the back, axle, sprocket, hub and so forth will all help bring the # down. Good luck let us know and if I come up with anything else, I'll let you know.
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do you have a tach on your yfz? ?? :lol
I'm also thinking of shaving alot of weight on it. Like the parking brake, the electric fan, rear tail light. I dont know if I should keep the grab bar in case it I get too much traction. I want to remove my foot peg protecters but I will keep them because I want protection from the studded tires. I'm also thinking of makin an aluminium front hood with out the fenders. It would be light weight and areodynamic. I'm also going to change my front shocks for my Blaster's front shocks and see if it lowers it enough to keep the front end down. Thats if the shocks will bolt up of coarse.
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yea dude...theres a freeking lot you can do to shave weight off...lets see...kicker, get new pipe, take the airbox assembly off, take the parking break, lights, redo the electric...get marvin shaw shocks(drag shocks that will lower it enough, take off the front break assembly(only need rears for draggin) take off the stock heelguards and buy aluminum ones & aluminum axle...
that should put it below 300 for sure...
that should put it below 300 for sure...
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if u plan on doin drags only then do this, if not do not do this
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yea, forgot that part :lol
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thats wut we are here for. by the way bunker king where do u live
Yesterday we made our own 500 ft drag strip. And we did some runs with my friends 2003 le Raptor. The best time that he ran with stock tires was 9.31 sec. I told him to start in 2nd and it helped alot. And he crosses the line in 4th gear. So I wont need the 15t sproket but I should try the 13t to get more acceleration out of the whole with the 22s. I still have a litle over 2 weeks to get my quad dialed in. Should be fun.
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