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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone with a measuring caliper measure for me the diameter of the 2014+ YFZ450R Special Edition OEM bumper tube area that horns up angled to the back right below the headlights. I did a calculation based on circumferemce but caliper best accuracy. Might have to pick one up on next harbor freight trip...

Thanks buddies.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well i plan on buying some LEDs square lights bright mofos. Last time at the trails some pig probably1000cc huge bmw bike almost killed me head on mofo couldnt swerve that thing or didnt see me and i couldnt go anywhere i was stopped at edge of cliff to let him pass. So i need some bright mofos led square lights to try to attempt to minimize head ons. Trying to find a mount that will mount them to front se bumper as high as possible or go to home depot and fabricate some type of mount. Im avoiding handlebar mounting. I like the in front of fenders location. Been busy with some other bs stuff.

Ive been thinking of just driving an extra hour and just head to the desert and ditch the trails. Too many idiots at the trails that will not slow down in blind curves. At curves i slow down and in attack position ready to swerve or stop.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Been thinking of the rough country 2 inch black series pair spot beam squarez with harness and plan on cutting the wire for the red led switch as it will always be on when switched off is what im reading. Budget from 80 to 140 for the pair. Dont.want no chinese junk. Whatcha think of these lights?
 

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Been thinking of the rough country 2 inch black series pair spot beam squarez with harness and plan on cutting the wire for the red led switch as it will always be on when switched off is what im reading. Budget from 80 to 140 for the pair. Dont.want no chinese junk. Whatcha think of these lights?
For about $35 you can get a 12" light bar, and two 4" cube light bars, with a wiring harness specifically for the headlights so you don't have to hack your wiring up. Honestly gambler, I've had really good luck with the cheapie ones.

If you are going to get light bars and wire them into the stock wiring, I suggest using the smaller sub harness that comes out of the headlight. Tap into the high or low beam switch and you'll have OEM controls working the LEDs. At least if you decide you don't want them anymore, you can replace that little sub harness.

Also, I'm with atvman... time for you to rock a gopro big homie. Let's see some good footage.

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Gambler, I plan on doing something similar on my SE with two smaller cube lights mounted to the front bumper. I'm not sure if my '13 SE bumper is the same as yours or not, but I planned on mounting them to the two bars that go forward/backward that tie the front part to the stock frame. I've learned that it's better to keep the lights slightly tucked in behind things rather than out front, or up top and prominent. They are always the firs thing to get bumped/knocked/moved/broken if they are not tucked in behind rigid stuff.

As for a mount, I planned on using something like this. If you put those on the bars that run forward/back on the front bumper, they will actually poke out to the sides, not poke out to the front. You then mount the square pods to that, pointing forward. You have almost an infinite adjustability between the lights themselves and how they can pivot both up and down, and on their mount bolt, plus these mounts can also rotate on the bar etc. You could easily dial in the exact mount location. I bet you could even mount them up high on the horns with those mounts as well if you wanted to.

Here is a pic of approximately where I was going to try and mount them on my SE. See the red squares.



As for wiring, I did exactly what Philly suggested on my sons Raptor 250 and it worked great. I just tapped into the highbeam of the stock lights. That way he just hits his high beams, and the light bar comes on and his stock headlights also stay on. Prior to all this, I installed some cheapo LED bumps in the stock headlights and have also already done that on my 450. This significantly lowers the power draw of the stock headlights which makes it safer to add the draw of the additional lights to the stock wiring, plus the color temp matches. In fact, I think the total draw of the LED bulbs in the stock headlights combined with the new light has a total draw that is less than the high beam on the factory halogen bulbs was alone. Not positive of that but it has to be close. Either way, this method worked great. No relays, no mess, easy. I even used Posi-Taps to tap into the lights. They work great. You don't have to cut or strip back insulation on your stock wires at all and they are very rugged. I just tapped both the hot and ground wires. Easy and done.

Here are pics of my sons Raptor. I used a light bar on his rather than two pods mainly just because the way the bumper was setup it worked better with just the one bar rather than two pods. I custom fabbed some stainless brackets to mount it. This light bar also has flood light LEDs combined with spots in the one bar. On my 450, I plan on getting flood light pods, not spot lights, but either will work.

 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Ordered some kc cubes. Plan on finding a.switch that fits on the lower handlebar mounting hole on the oem.stem....bars on front holes makes.riding a lil better. That half inch rise or whatever it is makes a difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hooked up lights to my truks battery and i like these lights. Spot beam exactly what i was looking for. Waiting on those universal mounts. Got a beefy heavy duty harness with relay too for future power needs. Nice and bright.


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Discussion Starter #11
Work in progress... Forget the blue tape. And mess.


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