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OEM is the best , but Hinson just came out with an oem replacement kit which is $200, I would highly reccomend that, as for which clutch not to get, stay away from EBC, mine lasted 3 races. I also have had the yz clutch mod done in one of my past motors and I was very impressed with that also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok i have decided to do the yz clutch mod.

can anyone tell me if this gytr yz450 clutch fiber kit will work. I know the oem fibers and plates will work

Also Do I need to replace my springs or will they work fine

CLICK HERE
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
yah i saw that, but its 70 dollars more.

The yz gytr kit comes with all the plates and springs. Thats all I need right.

What are those two washer like deals to the far left side of the picture? Between that friction plate?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Looking at the picture in that link, that far left plate is a smaller plate. The oem yz doesnt have that or those washer like deals.

What you guys think
 

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That GYTR unit looks like stock fibers, stock plates with the regular small fiber and jutter springs (helps to disengage clutch when cold... or keeps them from sticking) and "possibly" YZ clutch springs. I have no idea why they are including a new arm too...?

IMO.... I've been happy with OEM YFZ fibers and steels. I run the clutch mod.... all regular size finer (no small fiber) and no jutter springs.... with YZ springs, or Barnnet springs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
its a gytr kit for an 06 yz450f.

So buying this would not be like running a 9 plate yz mod setup?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I ordered a cheapy tusk clutch kit(I know tisk tisk) lol.

But i ordered the yz450 one so i have 9 plates. Maybe it will last until my oem plates get here.

anyways i want to adjust it correctly this time. So i need some advice

I put the 9 yz plates in and 8 steels, which I guess is considered the yz mod? Some people said they had to over the arm 2 or 3 splines. I did not have to. I did however have to adjust my clutch cable out near the motor.

Right now I have about a nickles worth of slack at my lever. Im pretty sure this is correct. But when i hold the clutch lever all the way in and rev it up in gear (like getting ready for the gates to drop) it wants to lurch forward just a little bit. Is this normal?

My other clutch did this too, but then again it was slipping so Im not sure if its normal.

Any advice would be great, thanks

chance
 

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my buddys does that too, im thinkin its burnt out already.

My clutch has never done that. I would put a stock clutch in it. From what ive heard (and tested, Grant has had his for what? 5 years? lol) they last the longest and dont slip alot. Of course they wont hold like a Hinson but Hinson ive heard that you basically have to replace every race.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i have stock fibers ordered. this is a quick fix for in the mean time.

Noway its burnt out lol. I just put it in and cranked it up and it did this
 

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Did you soak the fibers in oil?

They swell up and that alone takes out alot of cable slack.

IMO, you need more free play.
 

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QUOTE (YFZER359 @ Mar 4 2009, 06:47 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=753892
my buddys does that too, im thinkin its burnt out already.

My clutch has never done that. I would put a stock clutch in it. From what ive heard (and tested, Grant has had his for what? 5 years? lol) they last the longest and dont slip alot. Of course they wont hold like a Hinson but Hinson ive heard that you basically have to replace every race.[/b]
you hear too much :mhihi: its fine to listen but only about 10%of what you will hear from people is actually correct or you arent hearing the full story.


Chance....is this when the oil/engine is cold? the thicker oil will make more drag and make the quad want to move forward a little.

im not sure how thick a nickel is but 2-3mm is enough slack if you are still having trouble with lurching, just keep an eye on it all the time.

you'll probably find at the end of the race when everything is hot the lever will have more slack than when you start, then as it cools down it will take up the slack again...this is when you readjust the slack, when its cooled down again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
no i did not terse, should i take them back out and soak them in a bag? more free play makes it worse though because the clutch doesnt fully engage and spread out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
QUOTE (YFZ450 #69 @ Mar 4 2009, 09:56 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=753897
you hear too much :mhihi: its fine to listen but only about 10%of what you will hear from people is actually correct or you arent hearing the full story.


Chance....is this when the oil/engine is cold? the thicker oil will make more drag and make the quad want to move forward a little.

im not sure how thick a nickel is but 2-3mm is enough slack if you are still having trouble with lurching, just keep an eye on it all the time.

you'll probably find at the end of the race when everything is hot the lever will have more slack than when you start, then as it cools down it will take up the slack again...this is when you readjust the slack, when its cooled down again.[/b]
Yes the engine was cold, I ran it down the road and it seemed to still do it just a little.

by the way even with this 50 dollar tusk clutch it bites like a mofo with those 9 plates in there. I didnt change the springs because, the springs in my 08 seemed to be yz springs, or equivalent, atleast from as far as I could tell. I think I remember discussing it with terse.
 

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If you have already ridden it some... then just keep an eye on it. No need to pull them out and soak them now.

As mentioned :)mhihi:) they will be more grabby when cold as they are all stuck to each other...so just keep an eye on it. I still think it needs the cable adjusted some... maybe the arm does need to be moved over a spline? As the springs are pushing on the clutch it is holding it tight to the crank thus giving you that forward movement on the line, you should however be able to pull in the clutch lever and that releases the clutch plates from locking to the crank.... this is where you are not adjusted 100% (IMO).
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
but giving the lever more free play would not allow the the fibers to release the crank as much as they are now correct? Or is it the opposite?

How hard is it to move the arm? just a few bolts?
 
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