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Discussion Starter #22
You going to pull your after market stuff off first ? .., I would

Yea I just have the vortex and FMF. I will put the stock ecu and pipe back on for sure. the nerfs, rims and tires can stay.. same with my houser +1 stem.
 
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My 2016 yfzr has always sounded like a shitbox with a serious rod Knock. Since day one. I too bought an extended warranty. I hope. Lol. I just bought exhaust so i cant hear the knock. We will see how it goes


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My 2017 YFZ450r sounds like the rod bearing blew. bike has 20 hrs on it if that. For performance the bike has fmf 4.1 full exhaust and a vortex tuner map5- 6,6,7. I've changed the oil 3x already. air filter before every ride. oil is saturated and over filled with gas. Was full to the brim when I checked the oil. so fuel is leaking into the engine somehow. I noticed that after sitting over night the bike would take 5 or 6 seconds to start vs starting up instantly like when it was new or after riding it. It would only blow black smoke when you first started it. After riding if I let it sit and idle and revved it. no black smoke....something is leading me to think I have a stuck open fuel injector or a leaky one when the bike is sitting... or have a hole in my piston. anyone have any ideas or experience a similar issue before?


I may be wrong but I was under the impression that 10-20 hours was the break in period on a brand new quad, you’re saying your bike has 20 hours on it now (if that) I personally waited 20 hours before I put my Vortex and Yoshi on because I was scared to add any mods before the break in period was over.


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So my understanding is that the preffered non manufacturer say is to warm up the quad real good and then let her have it dont baby it and put a good load on the engine for like 20 minutes and let it cool down and repeat a few times. Done.

Correcto mundo?
 

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That's how I've done it. On more then a few engines.
You gotta realize, some if these pros are rebuilding engines in there trailers or have fresh engines swapped in before the races.
They don't break them in and heat cycle them.
And people will always say "But they rebuild them after every race"
That's not entirely true. At all. Also what does that mean?
They work for 30 40 60 minutes as hard as they ever will. I'm sure someone of non pro status will never push there motor that hard.

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So my understanding is that the preffered non manufacturer say is to warm up the quad real good and then let her have it dont baby it and put a good load on the engine for like 20 minutes and let it cool down and repeat a few times. Done.

Correcto mundo?
Add in a few oil changes as well for best results. If I build an engine, I warm it up, soon as its up to temperature, change the oil and filter. Make a few runs from just off idle to rev limiter, letting it engine brake all the way back down, do this at 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and then full throttle. So a few at quarter throttle, few at half, etc. After that's done, I change the oil and filter again.

This is what I was taught from a guy who builds NASCAR engines, and other super high dollar GM engines. He also told me that the rings will seat within 20 minutes or 20 miles. And also to break it in with the same style of riding you plan on doing.

This was 10+ years ago, lost count of how many engines I've done since. Have yet to lose an engine during break in, and I've never had one turn out with low compression or anything using that method.

Skip the break in specific oil, get a couple gallons of shell Rotella T6, along with a few cheap oil filters, and one K&N oil filter for your last change. Cheap insurance for a long life.

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I’ve heard plenty of newer YFZs that knock a little. Hell mine does as well. Just figured it was normal! I bet I got 30 hours on it now. Still starts and runs great! No smoke or anything that I can see. Megabomb still has a very light glow and gets pretty dang hot! Still love it
 

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Well actually now that I think about it maybe closer to 20 hours :)
 

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Are the k&n oil filters same size as stock or slightly smaller?
 

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My map 9 is a high compression map and my map 1 is the power map for stock motor with the 3 mods
Those instructions are incorrect......How many people do you want me to produce who have had their bikes dynoed? Like I said I am one of the most experienced

people with the Vortex on this site...I just spoke with Leonard Duncan and was told ALL Vortex maps for 09-17 are identical......Map 9, 5, 6, 6 was the recommended starting point for a three mod bike at any altitude on pump gas....Make sure your TPS has been set properly before you tune.....Ctown208 has extensive knowledge on the Vortex software if you're curious....

I can't offer you info on your knocking problems unless I could see it in person.

Per the manufacturer heat cycles and varrying engine rpm should of been the way you ran it for the first few hours for break in....I can post a video if you would like if you don't believe me.... ;)

Sounds like the rest of your maintenance is good!

Hint see the left upper corner....lots of posts and I've been on Central for a fairly long time.......

Is that still the recommended starting point if you only have exhaust and the vortex? Full fmf 4.1 w/ power bomb header. Map 9 5,6,6.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Anyone hear whatever happen with the OP issue?
It ended up being the gear off the clutch basket. Very common issue with the 2017s but is covered under warranty. The fuel in the oil issue was solved with new rings. Mine apparently had faulty rings from the factory too.
 

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My 2017 YFZ450r sounds like the rod bearing blew. bike has 20 hrs on it if that. For performance the bike has fmf 4.1 full exhaust and a vortex tuner map5- 6,6,7. I've changed the oil 3x already. air filter before every ride. oil is saturated and over filled with gas. Was full to the brim when I checked the oil. so fuel is leaking into the engine somehow. I noticed that after sitting over night the bike would take 5 or 6 seconds to start vs starting up instantly like when it was new or after riding it. It would only blow black smoke when you first started it. After riding if I let it sit and idle and revved it. no black smoke....something is leading me to think I have a stuck open fuel injector or a leaky one when the bike is sitting... or have a hole in my piston. anyone have any ideas or experience a similar issue before?
 
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