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2005 Yamaha YFZ450
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
yeah understandable, from how his was in the video I feel like mine is off by at least a millimeter or two so I think it could well be that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Finally got it all sorted, adjusted the float took it for a spin it drove fine, after that I put a paper towel under it and it seems that it’s all dry, the only thing is that before I took it for a drive whenever I would pull in the clutch and put it in to first than gave it gas to start going it would die on me so I basically couldn’t get it going and it had a hard time starting, so I took the zip tie mod off and it’s all good and fine and drives good, could it be that some of the machines don’t like the zip tie mod?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I guess I spoke too soon, came outside in the afternoon after leaving the petcock open, and again I see a little puddle under the quad so it is still dripping, so I have no idea what it could be now, can you replace needle valve seat just to get that out of the equation? Or maybe it can leak from the overflow tube right where it sits in the carburetor bowl?
 

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Finally got it all sorted, adjusted the float took it for a spin it drove fine, after that I put a paper towel under it and it seems that it’s all dry, the only thing is that before I took it for a drive whenever I would pull in the clutch and put it in to first than gave it gas to start going it would die on me so I basically couldn’t get it going and it had a hard time starting, so I took the zip tie mod off and it’s all good and fine and drives good, could it be that some of the machines don’t like the zip tie mod?
Working better without the zipite mod could be to due to being over jetted and your leak jet could be too small.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Do you think it will work fine with the oem jets or at least better, or do you think I should just get different ones, if so which sizes would you recommend? Also thank you so much for helping me out I appreciate it a lot, not sure how I would figure it out with out advice, and sorry for so many questions, I’m still new to quads.
 

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I guess I spoke too soon, came outside in the afternoon after leaving the petcock open, and again I see a little puddle under the quad so it is still dripping, so I have no idea what it could be now, can you replace needle valve seat just to get that out of the equation? Or maybe it can leak from the overflow tube right where it sits in the carburetor bowl?
The seat could be plugged up or your float level could be a tiny too high or be hanging up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I might try just replacing the seat, I think they sell new ones correct, the float was off but I think I adjusted it pretty much spot on I feel like but I will check again once I’m in there changing jets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
What is the best way to clean the seat if they are not replaceable and I can’t buy a new one, because it seems like it would be really hard to unscrew it from there.
 

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When I can't remove the seat I soak the whole assembly in cleaner and then vacuum or blow out what I can. I also tend to use long skinny fiber wire or strings to poke through hard to reach areas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Ok sounds good I will try and do that, what jets would you recommend for me so it doesn’t die out with the zip tie mod.
 

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So here are my jet sizes that were in the carb. Main jet 178, Pilot jet 45, leak jet 35. What jets would you recommend for me to put in so it doesn’t die with the zip tie mod like it is right now?
Looking at drd they say 172 on clip 6 if it's a stock needle and may require al largerpilot jet #45 or 48.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Ok great thank you very much for looking it up for me I didn’t now they had that available. But yeah I have a k&n filter with no lid and a drd exhaust from all I know and from what I can see, also I noticed today my exhaust is rattling around so I took it apart and the pipe that goes in the middle of the exhaust with the holes in it is broken of on the welds and it is just laying they rattling around and all the material that should be around it is practically missing besides one small piece, what if I just weld a straight pipe through it should that work fine? So I guess I will buy a 172 main and keep my pilot since it is already a 45, should I also buy a original leak jet and put a 50 instead of the 35 that is in there right now, also position #6 for the needle is counting from the top correct? What about the fuel mixture screw does it need to be around 2 turns out or maybe 2.5? Sorry for so many questions I just realized how much questions it was when I was re reading it haha.
 

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You will probably be ok with the pipe with holes being welded if it still holds the packing in but I'd make sure it has holes...no solid. 2 to 2.5 is good for fuel screw. The leak jet I am no so sure to be honest..that all depends on if you need more or less to go back it the bowel. If I recall leak jets are usually 35 to 45...but I'd look into that more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Yes I can weld in the old pipe with holes instead of the straight pipe, hopefully it is going to be a clean sound with the muffling material missing I’m afraid it might resonate a lot inside the exhaust canister, but I guess if it does that I can just buy some material and repack it. Do I count from the top for the needle when setting in it the 6th position or is that counting from the bottom?
 

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take a picture of the way the pipe is damaged. if it is in the inside and you repack the pipe it shouldn't matter. As far as the needle goes, you count from top to bottom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
It was cracked inside of the canister and it was rattling around in there so I just welded it back I think it should be fine, unfortunately I can take a picture since I put it all back already. Yep I actually found a thread about it so I already put it to the 6th position, I’m probably also going to do the cam mod, do you think that will effect the jetting?
 

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I would get it running right before doing the cam mod. Also, I would repack the pipe because it throws off the back pressure making the jetting never right. No pack causes too much exhaust inversion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Ok great sounds like a plan to me I was thinking of doing that as well, I will get it running perfect before the cam mod and then see if I need any changes when the cam mod is done. Sounds good I will buy some packing and repack the exhaust then, I will let you know how it goes once I have everything done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
So packing wise is there packing particular for my muffler that I can get or will I have to use like a universal packing material, maybe there is certain packing that you will recommend for me?
 
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