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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is like the 5th time my bike does not want to start out of nowhere. When I turn the key and then turn on the ignition if I don't hear the fuel pump prime the bike doesn't turn on. It has been working fine for about 2 months. About a month after I bought the bike I got stranded in the woods for half an hour because the fuel pump was not turning on, this was on the stock ecu too. I think its a connection or electrical issue because it works fine for a while and then it doesn't. I went to the track Saturday and after 2 sessions when I went to turn on the bike I didn't hear the fuel pump turn on and I knew it.


Reason I am making this thread is to see if anyone can help me diagnose the problem before I go ahead and take out the fuel pump today. Maybe there are some connections I should check that I am missing. I read on here that the fuel pump has a filter that can be clogged?


Mods are barkers exhaust, FCI, and vortex. Not sure if this can be a mechanical problem because last time my dyno guy couldn't fix my AFR with the vortex.
 

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I read somewhere that the two connections on the fuel pump itself can be loose from the factory, which might explain your symptoms. Even if the sock filter was clogged, you should still be able to hear the pump. Maybe you have a bad relay. Maybe a bad connection somewhere. Maybe a bad pump, but I doubt that. Just be safe when you're messing with fuel and wiring. Good luck and let us know what you find out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I doubt it is a bad fuel pump and yeah that is why I am asking, I know nothing about wiring. Either way the connections on the fuel pump outside of the gas tank seem fine. As of right now I guess I will just see if today after work I can take out the fuel pump and see if anything is loose or doesn't look right.


Could also be a relay? I'm sure im not the only one who has had this issue with the fuel pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Someone please chime in on this, i am not sure if i am testing out the correct fuses that will solve my problem. I am checking the fuses that are right next to the battery? The 2 yellow fuses that read 20. I turned on the key and only the right fuse is receiving power, the left fuse does not light up. Could this be my problem? before i go and replace this fuse. I also checked the relay in between the 2 fuses, also next to the battery, and it is receiving power. Not even sure if that is a relay or the right one i need to check, i know nothing about wiring.

Im planning on replacing that 20A fuse and if that doesn't solve my problem i guess my next step will be to remove the fuel pump and check connections? or could i be missing something else
 

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Dabbed,

I think I would go a head and pull the pump. If you need torque ratings I will get them for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok i just read on the manual that one fuse is a spare. Now i just want to make sure, the relay is what is inbetween both those fuses right? I unplugged it and 2 out of the 4 inside are receiving power so I am guessing the relay is good. Later on tonight i will have to pull out the fuel pump. As for the torque ratings, i dont even have a torque wrench so i will just tighten the bolts until they are tight enough lol thanks tho kilroy.
 

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I can text pages out of the manual if you need something let me know! This may solve the problems you were having earlier when you just got your Vortex.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks but i have the manual and i dont think it has anything to do with why my AFR was off. this just seems like an electrical/connection issue. I am hoping it is a loose connection in the fuel pump if not i will have to take it to the shop.
 

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Pull the harness that connects to the ecu, pop off the orange cover that covers the pins in the harness. Take a flashlight and look at the pins and make sure one or more isn't pushed in or damaged from connecting/disconnecting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I didn't check the pins inside the harness but I will later on today. I checked the pins inside the vortex and they looked fine. I pulled out the fuel pump last night and all the connections looked fine to me. None of them were loose. Still nothing, fuel pump is still not priming. Don't know what to do anymore as I have checked everything I think I could, later on today I am taking the quad to the shop and see if I can get it fixed for this long weekend, if not FML. I was hoping it was a fuel pump connection but I guess not. Maybe im not checking the relay right we'll see.
 

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Dabbed if your fuel pump is bad you may want to buy a new pump motor from EBay for $30 verse spending $300 at your dealer. By any chance have you tried tapping lightly on the side of the pump motor which can break loose sticking brushes?

Let us know what you find out!
 

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I didn't check the pins inside the harness but I will later on today. I checked the pins inside the vortex and they looked fine. I pulled out the fuel pump last night and all the connections looked fine to me. None of them were loose. Still nothing, fuel pump is still not priming. Don't know what to do anymore as I have checked everything I think I could, later on today I am taking the quad to the shop and see if I can get it fixed for this long weekend, if not FML. I was hoping it was a fuel pump connection but I guess not. Maybe im not checking the relay right we'll see.
We chased a problem like this before. it would prime the pump intermittently and when it did prime it up, the bike would run for a few minutes and then die. usually 5 minutes or less. it turned out to be a single wire in the harness pulled out a little bit from the connector going to the ecu. may not be your fix,but worth a look.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Just found the problem today. My fuel pump relay is completely corroded for some reason. I was checking the wrong relay if not i would have noticed it myself before i took it to the shop. He put some white gel into it and the fuel pump primed right up. For now its working and at least i know what the problem is now. Im going to have to replace that relay after the weekend, hopefully it will hold till then so I can ride. After I got home from the shop it actually didn't want to prime again, i hit the relay 3-4 times and it worked again.
 

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Glad to hear you figured out the problem. Careful doing any big jumps, if the fuel pump shuts off right at the face of the jump that could be a big problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Glad to hear you figured out the problem. Careful doing any big jumps, if the fuel pump shuts off right at the face of the jump that could be a big problem.
I'm actually going to the track tomorrow with the relay like that and I was just thinking about that happening, hopefully it doesn't but I don't think it will cut off while riding, I thought this was just more of a starting issue. Best I can do is zip tie the relay to the frame so its not bouncing around inside the tail light plastic. I also need to find another relay for it, the part thats attached to the wiring harness is even more corroded.
 

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Not 100% sure, but I think this fuel pump is a pulse design, or just a dead-head setup-- returnless. If this is the case, then you should be able to use a switch to take the place of the relay, as that's basically all a relay is. I certainly wouldn't recommend it as a long-term solution, but as long as you turn it off after you're done riding, it's basically performing the same function. As previously stated, this isn't a suggestion for a long-term solution, so please keep the flaming to a minimum... Also, DabbedOut450, if your relay and relay socket are really corroded, you may want to replace the socket in your harness, or at least de-pin the socket and clean the terminals and then apply dielectric grease to the connection. Just remember to label the wires and locations in the socket, so it all goes back together correctly. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Not 100% sure, but I think this fuel pump is a pulse design, or just a dead-head setup-- returnless. If this is the case, then you should be able to use a switch to take the place of the relay, as that's basically all a relay is. I certainly wouldn't recommend it as a long-term solution, but as long as you turn it off after you're done riding, it's basically performing the same function. As previously stated, this isn't a suggestion for a long-term solution, so please keep the flaming to a minimum... Also, DabbedOut450, if your relay and relay socket are really corroded, you may want to replace the socket in your harness, or at least de-pin the socket and clean the terminals and then apply dielectric grease to the connection. Just remember to label the wires and locations in the socket, so it all goes back together correctly. Good luck.
Thats what the guy did. He pulled off the relay but noticed the relay socket was even more corroded, he put some dielectric grease on it, put the relay back on and it primed right up. I am going to have to replace the relay and the relay socket on the wiring harness. So like you said i am going to de-pin the socket after tomorrow and see if i can install a new socket and relay. I am just not sure where to buy the socket and relay.
 

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The easiest way to replace everything may be to look at the specs on the relay and just go to O'Reilly's and snag a basic relay with the same specs. It's a 12V relay with a specific amperage rating, so you should be able to check the specs and get one that is electrically the same and install it in place. Otherwise, you could use a relay and socket from a used wiring harness. I'm sure there are a few people who have a harness lying around. I know I do. If you're still in need by the time I get home from Brazil, I should be able to send a relay socket to Florida.
 
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