Gambler, I plan on doing something similar on my SE with two smaller cube lights mounted to the front bumper. I'm not sure if my '13 SE bumper is the same as yours or not, but I planned on mounting them to the two bars that go forward/backward that tie the front part to the stock frame. I've learned that it's better to keep the lights slightly tucked in behind things rather than out front, or up top and prominent. They are always the firs thing to get bumped/knocked/moved/broken if they are not tucked in behind rigid stuff.
As for a mount, I planned on using something like this
. If you put those on the bars that run forward/back on the front bumper, they will actually poke out to the sides, not poke out to the front. You then mount the square pods to that, pointing forward. You have almost an infinite adjustability between the lights themselves and how they can pivot both up and down, and on their mount bolt, plus these mounts can also rotate on the bar etc. You could easily dial in the exact mount location. I bet you could even mount them up high on the horns with those mounts as well if you wanted to.
Here is a pic of approximately where I was going to try and mount them on my SE. See the red squares.
As for wiring, I did exactly what Philly suggested on my sons Raptor 250 and it worked great. I just tapped into the highbeam of the stock lights. That way he just hits his high beams, and the light bar comes on and his stock headlights also stay on. Prior to all this, I installed some cheapo LED bumps in the stock headlights and have also already done that on my 450. This significantly lowers the power draw of the stock headlights which makes it safer to add the draw of the additional lights to the stock wiring, plus the color temp matches. In fact, I think the total draw of the LED bulbs in the stock headlights combined with the new light has a total draw that is less than the high beam on the factory halogen bulbs was alone. Not positive of that but it has to be close. Either way, this method worked great. No relays, no mess, easy. I even used Posi-Taps
to tap into the lights. They work great. You don't have to cut or strip back insulation on your stock wires at all and they are very rugged. I just tapped both the hot and ground wires. Easy and done.
Here are pics of my sons Raptor. I used a light bar on his rather than two pods mainly just because the way the bumper was setup it worked better with just the one bar rather than two pods. I custom fabbed some stainless brackets to mount it. This light bar also has flood light LEDs combined with spots in the one bar. On my 450, I plan on getting flood light pods, not spot lights, but either will work.