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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Kansas
Posts: 93
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First off this is my first "How To" post so bear with me. So if you feel that I left a step out or something let me know. We used a Bridgeport mill to do this modification for your reference.
To start off drain the oil and coolant and take off the clutch cover. You won't have to strip the clutch cover completely down, just take off all the covers (clutch insert, oil filter, water pump cover), remove the 2 dowels if they came off with the cover, and remove the water pump. Just use a open end wrench to hold the back side of the water pump and a 12mm socket on an impact and take the impellar off the shaft. It comes off counterclockwise or lefty loosey FYI. Now tape off the water pump bearing and make sure there are no other dowels on the clutch cover so it can sit flat. Make sure you have it sitting flat on the milling surface inside facing up and tighten it down. This is going to be what you will be milling down. The circle must be milled down 3.5mm or .1378". ![]() Start off by coming from the side and mill across one pass then by the two little peices that come down you will have to make a circular pass. Don't take off anything more than the circle. The two little peices that hang down hold the squirter from spinning. This is what it should look like when you finish milling it down. ![]() Next step is to drill the hole for the squirter to fit in. I used a 5/16" drill bit for this. You will want to drill it down 1/2". It is important that you mill it down first then drill your hole so you get the right depth. After we finished drilling the hole we chamfered the hole just a bit to allow the o-ring to slide in easier so you won't pinch it. ![]() Next you need to drill a hole into the oil pressure passage. We used a 7/32" drill bit but you could use smaller one if needed. When you are drilling be sure to watch through the banjo bolt hole and make sure you don't go to far through just enough to make a passage to the squirter. ![]() ![]() ![]() Now blow air through all the oil passage ways and make sure it's all clear of shavings. Before you insert the oil squirter, put a bit of grease on the o-ring so it will slide in easier. It fits a little tighter than the stock '07 cover which I like better and it doesn't rock back and forth like the stock one. I think the '07 one has a bit to much clearance than it needs. ![]() You can use the OEM Yamaha o-ring for the squirter and like I said it fits a bit tight but it isn't a problem as long as you have a good chamfer on the hole so you dont' pinch the o-ring. I ended up pinching the o-ring and taking a chunk out of it from taking it in and out of the hole so much test fitting it so I ended up using a tiny bit smaller o-ring I got from one of those bulk o-ring kits you can get from harbor freight or hardware store. You can also get the o-ring seperatly from your local hardware store too. Here is a pic to show the difference. ![]() Don't forget you need the new style oil pump as well. To get to it you will need to take off the clutch basket and everything. The clutch basket nut is a 30mm FYI. Now for the final step when putting the clutch cover back on, you may have to cut out a spot on the clutch cover gasket to clear the squirter but if you got a new gasket it most likely has the cut out already. Hope this was helpful and showed people how to do the squirter upgrade themselves and save some money.
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'06 YFZ450 - F.A.S.T. Ported, Venom 12.25:1 Piston, Stock Cams, 42mm Carb, Curtis Sparks Big Core, FCI Intake, Dyna CDI, Trailtech DC Conversion ![]() F.A.S.T. Racing |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Good writeup, thanks for posting!
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YFZ450 Garage |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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It does the same thing but it goes about it a different way. Think of this as upgrading your case similar to the '07 and later versions.
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YFZ450 Garage |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Kansas
Posts: 93
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It's the same thing as the '07 squirter upgrade but instead of buying a whole new cover you are just modding your existing cover to use the squirter. Saves you almost $150 or whatever the '07 covers cost.
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'06 YFZ450 - F.A.S.T. Ported, Venom 12.25:1 Piston, Stock Cams, 42mm Carb, Curtis Sparks Big Core, FCI Intake, Dyna CDI, Trailtech DC Conversion ![]() F.A.S.T. Racing |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Colorado
Posts: 23
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Does J&T do this mod anymore and is this a better mod than the others? Can't I just buy a side cover from a 07 and an 07 oil pump? I really want to do this but I am really confused as to which way to go any advise would be appreciated.
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2006 cam mod, J&T oil mod, Maxxis razr and razr2, AC nerfs, UNI filter, Pro Tech air box lid, Jardine pipe, PIAA headlights, Gforce axle, 13t sprocket, Renthal Fatbars, Pro Taper tree, GYTR skid pan
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 291
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QUOTE (BMF454 @ Mar 19 2009, 09:16 PM)
Quote:
this mod is very effective. and yes you can just buy the 07 cover and 07 oil pump and install it and it should work. but youll be spending way more money that way. |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Colorado
Posts: 23
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does the 3.5mm have to be exactly machined down or is this something I can do with a die grinder or something simular? I can easily drill the holes but dont have a local machinist.
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2006 cam mod, J&T oil mod, Maxxis razr and razr2, AC nerfs, UNI filter, Pro Tech air box lid, Jardine pipe, PIAA headlights, Gforce axle, 13t sprocket, Renthal Fatbars, Pro Taper tree, GYTR skid pan
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 291
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QUOTE (BMF454 @ Mar 19 2009, 11:25 PM)
Quote:
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Kansas
Posts: 93
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QUOTE (BMF454 @ Mar 19 2009, 11:25 PM)
Quote:
__________________
'06 YFZ450 - F.A.S.T. Ported, Venom 12.25:1 Piston, Stock Cams, 42mm Carb, Curtis Sparks Big Core, FCI Intake, Dyna CDI, Trailtech DC Conversion ![]() F.A.S.T. Racing |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Manhattan, KS
Posts: 296
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correct me if i'm wrong, but the only new parts you need are the O-Ring, Oil Squirter, and Oil Pump and possibly the gasket. With the squirter and pump being specifically an 07. Anybody got part numbers for those 2?
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#18 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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QUOTE (ballsdeep450 @ Mar 18 2009, 02:00 AM)
Quote:
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'68 C-10 Chevy - Full rebuild, including my own custom frame and all... |
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#19 (permalink) | |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 6
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QUOTE (yfz450_0569 @ Apr 30 2009, 05:09 PM)
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what holds the squirter in? I can see why it doesnt spin, but what stops the oil pressure from blowing it right out? when you install the outer cover, does any part of the nozzle hit something on the case half to keep it in? |
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#20 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Manhattan, KS
Posts: 296
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ya. when you do it the other way you install a jet right next to the slot in the right case half. with this you install the squirter in the right case cover, then when you put the cover on the squirter goes into the hole and butts up against the sides of it, preventing it from coming out.
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