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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 13,943
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This is a basic tutorial on how to adjust the valves on the YFZ.
Step 1: Remove front plastics and gas tank. [attachment=5334:pic1.jpg] Step 2: Remove ignition coil, oil tank breather hose and cylinder head breather hose. [attachment=5335:pic2.jpg] Step 3: Blow out cylinder with compressed air to remove water and/or dirt around the spark plug. Then remove the spark plug. Remove the valve cover. [attachment=5336:pic3.jpg] Step 4: Remove timing mark and crankshaft access screws. [attachment=5337:pic4.jpg] Step 5: Turn crankshaft counterclockwise until the "I" mark lines up with the AC magneto rotor. Verify you're at TDC by making sure the punch marks on the intake and exhaust cams line up with the cylinder head. (This is the stock YFZ timing. Rotate the exhaust cam one tooth clockwise to do the "cam-mod". There are 14 pins between the top two punches and when the cam-mod is done there should be 13 pins between them.) [attachment=5338:pic5.jpg] Step 6: Measure the valve clearance with a thickness guage. If the valve clearance is out of spec record the measured reading. [attachment=5339:pic6.jpg] Step 7: Loosen tensioner cap bolt and remove the timing chain tensioner. This is an optional step because you can release the tension while it's still installed and have enough slack in the timing chain to do what's needed. [attachment=5340:pic7.jpg] Step 8: Remove camshaft cap bolts in a crisscross pattern in stages working from the outside inward. [attachment=5342:pic9.jpg] Step 9: Stuff a rag around all the openings in the motor so nothing falls in like the circlips. Secure timing chain to the frame using a wire-tie then remove the camshaft cap and camshaft. [attachment=5343:pic10.jpg] Step 10: Remove the buckets along with the shims using a maganet. [attachment=5345:pic12.jpg] [attachment=5346:pic13.jpg] [attachment=5347:pic14.jpg] Make sure you keep everything in order and take notes of what bucket had what shim in it and what valve it went to. [attachment=5348:pic15.jpg] Step 11: Replace shims using the conversion chart provided with the service manual. ![]() Reassemble everything according to the service manual using the proper torque measurements with engine assembly lube or a heavy weight motor oil. Hope this helps a few people out. And if I missed anything please let me know. This is a basic outline of how to adjust the valves on the YFZ. ALWAYS refer to your service manual for more detailed instructions because I didn't cover everything in the tutorial. [attachment=5351:Picture1_48.jpg] [attachment=5352:Picture2_15.jpg]
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My photography website---->http://duanenoblick.zenfolio.com/ "Live as if you were to die tommorow. Learn as if you were to live forever." -Ghandi |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 4,737
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the sticky bandit has struck again
good work Duane, once again!!! we need a "pat on the back" smilie just one thing to make it a bit easier, its not a necessity to remove the ACCT, you an just "unload" the preload on it, and there is enough slack in the cam chain to do the job. I find its alot quicker when you dont have to stuff around removing the 2 bolts that hold it in as there isnt much room to work there GOOD WORK
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pfft. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 13,943
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A select few edits and relocation of the pics. Thanks for the suggestion.
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My photography website---->http://duanenoblick.zenfolio.com/ "Live as if you were to die tommorow. Learn as if you were to live forever." -Ghandi |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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It says the photos have been moved or deleted. Can you put the pictures back up?
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Neal C. Tody - www.myspace.com/ntody 2005 SE YFZ450 - Pro Design Pro-Flow Intake, Renthal YFZ Bend Handlebars, AC nerfs, 20/18 Holeshot MX, Burgard +2 a-arms, G-Force +4 axle, and front DeRisi Pro Millennium shock rebuilds. ![]() http://www.kbmotorsportsonline.com Attention Post Whores |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 13,943
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I'm starting to hate photobucket.....nothing but problems lately. Sorry for the delay.
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My photography website---->http://duanenoblick.zenfolio.com/ "Live as if you were to die tommorow. Learn as if you were to live forever." -Ghandi |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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duane- did you upload them like I told you in a pm?
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Dale Jr VS Edwards @ MIS Thanks goes out too: Trail Tech -Vapor Unit - 360-687-4530 www.trailtech.net Rob @ CV Products- CV4 Hoses - 800-874-1223 www.cv4.net
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#7 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 13,943
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I know how to do it
but I just have to make time.....which it seems I have alot of but some things have to be first and some things have to be last.
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My photography website---->http://duanenoblick.zenfolio.com/ "Live as if you were to die tommorow. Learn as if you were to live forever." -Ghandi |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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They're up now. Looking good. I gave a friend of mine this link and I just thought I'd take a look over it again and I noticed the pictures weren't working. Wanted to make sure the guy got to see all the pics to go with it. Thanks for fixing it.
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Neal C. Tody - www.myspace.com/ntody 2005 SE YFZ450 - Pro Design Pro-Flow Intake, Renthal YFZ Bend Handlebars, AC nerfs, 20/18 Holeshot MX, Burgard +2 a-arms, G-Force +4 axle, and front DeRisi Pro Millennium shock rebuilds. ![]() http://www.kbmotorsportsonline.com Attention Post Whores |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 13,943
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Can everybody see these pics in the first post? I've gotten a few PM's saying peeps can't see them.
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My photography website---->http://duanenoblick.zenfolio.com/ "Live as if you were to die tommorow. Learn as if you were to live forever." -Ghandi |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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I see them
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Dale Jr VS Edwards @ MIS Thanks goes out too: Trail Tech -Vapor Unit - 360-687-4530 www.trailtech.net Rob @ CV Products- CV4 Hoses - 800-874-1223 www.cv4.net
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#13 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 13,943
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Same clearances as stock timing or YZ timing (cam mod).
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My photography website---->http://duanenoblick.zenfolio.com/ "Live as if you were to die tommorow. Learn as if you were to live forever." -Ghandi |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 297
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What size allen head do I need to take off the crankshaft cover..My number 10 isnt big enough. Then what size to spin it?
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[topic="http://www.yfzcentral.com/invision/index.php?showtopic=71463"]My feedback thread[/topic] |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Bronson, MI
Posts: 200
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What is the "cam mod" that you were talking about? If I'm running a stock exhaust and header-actually, everything on my motor is stock except my K&N air filter, stock jetting even-would it be worth my time to put in high performance cams? What can I do to my existing cams to enhance my machine's performance(if anything?) If I do decide to look into doing a cam mod, which cams and from where should I put in? Should I even worry about doing ANY kind of cam modifications if I'm still running a stock exhaust? I'm working with a limited budget, and would like to know where to start on this pretty much bone stock machine. Thanks!!!
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Blue 2005 YFZ 450 DG Alloy Nerf Bars Pro Design kill switch Hot Rods Stroker Crank Wiseco 13.5:1 High Compression Piston Trail Tech +2oz flywheel Hot Cams Exhaust Cam GYTR Kick Start w/1997 YZ 250 Kick Start Lever White Bros. First Generation E-Series Slip-On Exhaust Gibson Steering Stabilizer Razr MX tires all around So much motor on my hands, so little time to smoke my friends! |
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#17 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
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if i did not know any better, i would think you are eyeing me Fox Dcs shocks, Lonestar Dc4 Arms,Burgard Stem and Subrame, Hiper's with razrs all around, Elka dual rate rear, houser XC and LT linkage,Carb Mod, Cam Mod,K-Fab radiator spill tank and propegs with hellguards, Gusset frame,Rossier full exhaust ,GYTR frame skid and swinger 2 piece skid,K&N filter with outerwear,AC bumper, PRM grab bar,LSR axle with honda sprocket hub, flexxbars, 250R throttle, WR kit,
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#18 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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The cam mod is that the timing from factory is advanced causing the detination to be a tad early. you can relieve this by retarding the timing by one tooth or rejetting to run a higher octane gas. i havent heard of anyone one using higher octane but everyone does tghe cam mod. i am actually doing the cam mod and adjusting the valves this wekend and i will let you know the difference it makes.
Quote:
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if i did not know any better, i would think you are eyeing me Fox Dcs shocks, Lonestar Dc4 Arms,Burgard Stem and Subrame, Hiper's with razrs all around, Elka dual rate rear, houser XC and LT linkage,Carb Mod, Cam Mod,K-Fab radiator spill tank and propegs with hellguards, Gusset frame,Rossier full exhaust ,GYTR frame skid and swinger 2 piece skid,K&N filter with outerwear,AC bumper, PRM grab bar,LSR axle with honda sprocket hub, flexxbars, 250R throttle, WR kit,
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#20 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Alright, i did the cam mod and completely forgot to post the results. It was a bit of a headache to adjust the vavles and such but while your doing the vavle adjustment ( which should be once a year fo casual riders and twice a year or more for racers) you should just do the cam mod while you are there. one thing,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, take the spacers between your carb boot clamps out, they cause me am incredible pain because under a laod it was still sucking air. i wen throug complete h@ll because of that with jetting, timing check and all of that , took me a weeek or so to find it and fix it. now my jetting is so screwed up i am still trying to fix that.
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if i did not know any better, i would think you are eyeing me Fox Dcs shocks, Lonestar Dc4 Arms,Burgard Stem and Subrame, Hiper's with razrs all around, Elka dual rate rear, houser XC and LT linkage,Carb Mod, Cam Mod,K-Fab radiator spill tank and propegs with hellguards, Gusset frame,Rossier full exhaust ,GYTR frame skid and swinger 2 piece skid,K&N filter with outerwear,AC bumper, PRM grab bar,LSR axle with honda sprocket hub, flexxbars, 250R throttle, WR kit,
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