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Old 03-16-2009, 08:28 PM   #81 (permalink)
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QUOTE (Sidewinder @ Mar 16 2009, 05:15 PM)
Quote:
Put a smaller shim in all but that intake one that read .004. It's ok to replace just a few shims at a time as long as all valves are within spec.[/b]
Thats what I was thinkin, just wanted to clarify. Thanks for the quick reply.
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Old 03-16-2009, 10:26 PM   #82 (permalink)
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Ok another question...

I pulled the caps off, and found what i assume are the shims up inside the caps. I pulled those out and they do have numbers on them. However these numbers are not in increments of 5 like the charts show. one is 182, 176 etc.. A couple of them are xx5 and xx0. I have a 2006 if that matters? I also notice that they seem to be quite a bit smaller in diameter than the ones in the pictures and they seem to be quite thick, do I have the right things?
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2000 S-10 ZR2 - Stock 2" lift, Westin Nerf Bars, 31" BFG A/T, Bilstein Shocks, K&N, Hummer H2 offroad lights.

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Old 03-16-2009, 10:28 PM   #83 (permalink)
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Have you ever adjusted the valves before?
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Old 03-16-2009, 10:33 PM   #84 (permalink)
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Nope never have.

I looked over the pictures again and the shims look like the correct size. Just numbering system is different.
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Old 03-16-2009, 10:37 PM   #85 (permalink)
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I guess the best thing you can do is compare to the ones that are labeled to the unlabeled ones, estimate, and go from there.
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Old 03-16-2009, 10:43 PM   #86 (permalink)
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they are all labeled as follows

Closest to the chain first...

Exhaust
176
178

Intake
175 (staying at 175)
180
182

Should I just go down to the next xx5 or xx0 number?
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Old 03-16-2009, 10:46 PM   #87 (permalink)
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Oh sorry, yes, just round to the nearest one on the chart. I was under the impression some of them weren't labeled.
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Old 03-16-2009, 11:23 PM   #88 (permalink)
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So should i get the 175 for both the exhuasts or go all the way down to 170?

Same for the intake, the 180 will go down to 175 but should I go down to 175 also for the 182?
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Old 03-17-2009, 12:08 AM   #89 (permalink)
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QUOTE (jeeper78 @ Mar 16 2009, 06:43 PM)
Quote:
they are all labeled as follows

Closest to the chain first...

Exhaust
176
178

Intake
175 (staying at 175)
180
182

Should I just go down to the next xx5 or xx0 number?[/b]
in order for exhaust:
175
175

and go in order to yours for intake:
170
175
175
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Old 05-20-2009, 09:23 PM   #90 (permalink)
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Is it possible or heard of for one to just STAY RIGHT and not need adjustment? I have an '04 450 that I got in late '05 from somebody that never road it due to injury. Ive road the ATV quite a bit over the years keeping it VERY WELL MAINTAINED and oil changes prolly too close together sometimes HAHA.

I just got done checking my valves and everything was within spec and not even on the loose end of spec. I had a friend check over me read the manual AND this tutorial a few times double checking for a mis-read. BUT NOTHING. HERE IS WHAT I CAME UP WITH...
LEFT EXHAUST: .203mm w/ resistance but .229mm was a NO GO.
RIGHT EXHAUST: .229mm / very snug

LEFT INTAKE: .102mm was loose but .127 was NO GO.
MID INTAKE: .102mm w/ some resistance
RIGHT INTAKE: .127mm w/ snug fit

Look good or am I just an idiot that missed something and doing it wrong?
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Old 07-22-2009, 08:56 PM   #91 (permalink)
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i wish one of u guys could come to my house and help me adjust vales.but for my first time doing it i dont wanna w00ter anything up.what all tools do i need i got a feeler gauge ,alens,and sockets and stuff...and do i have to have that hot cams shim kit just adjust valves.last of all should i drain oil??? thanx forany peplys..im a newbie on mechanics
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Old 01-01-2010, 05:57 PM   #92 (permalink)
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You don't need a shim kit if you have a week to get the shims you need from the dealer. I was able to move the shims around so the intake side was in spec and all I had to order was 2 shims for the exhaust. The 2 shims cost around $10 so that's alot cheaper than a shim kit. You don't need to drain the oil. You also need a torque wrench to torque the cam towers to 7.2 ft.lbs.
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Old 04-23-2010, 07:24 PM   #93 (permalink)
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How much pressure should you put on the thickness gauge to get it under the cams? I was able to get the .254mm gauge under the exhaust cam with a little bit of pressure (somewhat tight fit). I was then able to get up to the .309mm gauge under there, however, I had to press on it quite hard to get it to go. Is there a chance that I am compressing the valve springs pushing that hard to get the gauge under the cam?

Thanks.
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Old 10-03-2010, 08:45 AM   #94 (permalink)
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09 yfzr with 10 hours on it. when should i have it done? im new!
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Old 06-09-2011, 04:09 PM   #95 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duane View Post
This is a basic tutorial on how to adjust the valves on the YFZ.

Step 1: Remove front plastics and gas tank.



Step 2: Remove ignition coil, oil tank breather hose and cylinder head breather hose.



Step 3: Blow out cylinder with compressed air to remove water and/or dirt around the spark plug. Then remove the spark plug. Remove the valve cover.





Step 4: Remove timing mark and crankshaft access screws.





Step 5: Turn crankshaft counterclockwise until the "I" mark lines up with the AC magneto rotor. Verify you're at TDC by making sure the punch marks on the intake and exhaust cams line up with the cylinder head. (This is the stock YFZ timing. Rotate the exhaust cam one tooth clockwise to do the "cam-mod". There are 14 pins between the top two punches and when the cam-mod is done there should be 13 pins between them.)



Step 6: Measure the valve clearance with a thickness guage. If the valve clearance is out of spec record the measured reading.



Step 7: Loosen tensioner cap bolt and remove the timing chain tensioner. This is an optional step because you can release the tension while it's still installed and have enough slack in the timing chain to do what's needed.



Step 8: Remove camshaft cap bolts in a crisscross pattern in stages working from the outside inward.



Step 9: Stuff a rag around all the openings in the motor so nothing falls in like the circlips. Secure timing chain to the frame using a wire-tie then remove the camshaft cap and camshaft.



Step 10: Remove the buckets along with the shims using a maganet.







Make sure you keep everything in order and take notes of what bucket had what shim in it and what valve it went to.




Step 11: Replace shims using the conversion chart provided with the service manual.



Reassemble everything according to the service manual using the proper torque measurements with engine assembly lube or a heavy weight motor oil.



Hope this helps a few people out. And if I missed anything please let me know.

This is a basic outline of how to adjust the valves on the YFZ. ALWAYS refer to your service manual for more detailed instructions because I didn't cover everything in the tutorial.

[attachment=5351:Picture1_48.jpg]

[attachment=5352:Picture2_15.jpg]
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