Problems with clutch

[450rRacer22]

Ever since I bought my 08 yfz the clutch has never been right with it. Its very hard to pull the clutch in, and when its running and in gear I can hit the throttle and it will lunge forward a bit. I've adjusted the clutch numerous times at the lever and below on the cable. Nothing seems to help. I took the plates and fibers out last night and I'm just wondering what I should be looking for as far as being wore out. This is the first clutch I've had to work on so I'm pretty new to this. Any input would be greatly appreciated I'd really like to get this figured out. Thanks

[450rRacer22]

Here are some pictures. I know there not very good its really dark in my basement but thought I would post them anyways. Maybe you guys can see something that I'm not. Dont be jealous of the flower paper towel lol, its badass i know.

[450rRacer22]

Anyone?

[Doc Sanders]

I'm having the same issue, we replaced clutch disks as well as the cable. Springs were in spec, and the arm acutator is within the 1.50"-1.78" specs as well. No matter what has been changed it still has the same issue.

[chewdogg]

so the clutch disks are not separating enough so that the basket and the hub can unlock...so I'm wondering, if the clutch is adjusted all the way out, if the oil you're using could be a problem. just a point of info, and not to insult, but some oils are not wet clutch compatible. your oil should say right on the bottle wether it is compatible or not. just one thing to consider.....

[Doc Sanders]

None taken. We are using amsoil v-twin which is what we use in out motorcycles as well as the other two 450's and a raptor, so I don't think the oil could be be causing an issue in just this one four wheeler. Also to answer about the clutch adjustment, we had to adjust the cable as there was alot of free play. Its not all the way out there is still more room for adjustment. But one thing that didn't make sense was that no matter what the adjustment was (all the way in or all the way out) it didn't make any difference. The other thing is that we took the clutch cover off and inspected that the clutch hub was able to move freely (which it was).

One other note which should have been included earlier. We bought this 450 from someone who didn't know much about them, he had to have the motor rebuilt due to getting sand sucked in the intake. Now he said that it was done by a certified mechanic.

At this point I'm wondering if maybe when rebuilding the motor something might have not been installed correctly? But then my next question would be what to check?

Also while I was doing some research, I saw someone had said to check and make sure that the little ball bearing has not fallen out as that can cause some issues as well. When we replaced the clutch I checked to make sure it was there. So I'm at a loss here. My next thing would be to replace the basket and both hubs if need be.

[Kenny Lampe]

need fibers on the outside and inside.. Looks like you only have them on the outside.

[Kenny Lampe]

and the arm acutator within spects? What do you mean by that. Ive been having massive problems with my clutch as well. havent tried to adjust the nuts on the cable by the motor yet. Just put on rox risers and got a plus 2 motion pro cable. Ever since ive messed with it ive been having issues with keeping the cable in adjustment. dont know what to do.

[chewdogg]

well, the clutch is a pretty straightforward system. If you've taken the clutch cover off and actuated the clutch and it moves back and forth then SOMETHING is making it so the fibers and steels are not separating, as the friction between them is the only thing that connects the hub and the basket and makes the bike go. I would start cheap and replace the clutch cable to eliminate any stretching problems that may have occured. second, and not to beat a dead horse, make sure the oil IS wet clutch compatible no matter what other bikes it works in and check to make sure the rings are in order as mentioned above. If this doesn't work then think about a new basket. p.s. if the bike is only moving a tiny bit this could be a sign of a new clutch and will wear with time.....I had a banshee that used to do that and it eventually corrected itself.

[Doc Sanders]

Kenny,

If you look in the mannual it talks about the clutch acutator arm and it gives you a measurement of how far the arm should be from the mounting point for the bottom part of the cable. If that makes any sense. Basically that the center of the arm needs to be from 1.5" - 1.78" away from where the cable connects to the case. Also another point is that there are two dots (one on the shaft and one on the arm it's self) that line up from the factory. It states in the mannual that if the arm is not within the specs then the arm must be moved.

Also when people change to the nine disk setup (from what I've read) they must move the arm to compensate for the extra fiber and steel. I haven't done this so no first hand knowledge about it.

[Doc Sanders]

Thats the thing chewdogg sometimes it hardly moves other times it rolls at a walking pace. We did replace the clutch cable (the old one was stretched out maybe a quarter of an inch) but it still does the samething. And the oil IS wet clutch compatible I promise I know your trying to help but thats not it.
Also about the basket, we took it out and filed the edges just to make sure that it wasn't possibly catching somewhere.


I'm at the point now where I'm just going to ride the thing and something will either give or it will straighten its self out, as the four wheeler doens't even have any hours on this clutch or motor. I do agree that it might be a new clutch thing, and will need to get some wear in before it settles back to normal.

[climb-101]

which way do you have the tapered ring (the little on in that goes in first with the half fiber.) in the pics it looks like it is in wrong but cant really tell. I think it says "this side out" on it.

[eagertorace]

were the new fibers soaked in oil the day before?

[bbcmudtruck]

Sounds like you don't have the clutch pack assembled in the correct order. Be sure that you have a fiber on first and a steel between each fiber. Steel discs can wear over time as well, did you replace them when you replaced the fibers? Also, if you tried running the bike much at all with the clutch slipping, you may have fried the new clutch fibers.

[WestTxDunner]

I'm going to answer for my dad (Doc Sanders).

Climb-101,
If your referring to the pictures we did do the upgrade (of changing the 8th disk from the half to a full disk) to the clutch so that picture isn't of our particular issue and we no longer have those two extra half steels in the clutch. We originally posted in this topic as we were having the same issue as 450rRacer22.

eagertorace,
The first clutch was soaked for several days (as we were waiting on parts) and the second clutch was soaked for a couple of hours before being put in. It had the same outcome with either clutch.

bbcmudtruck,

I did assemble the clutch correctly (fiber, steel, fiber, steel....etc.) There are eight new fibers and seven new steels along with brand new springs.
I don't think its the clutch is slipping as that would cause the four wheeler to NOT roll, but rather that it has too much bite or not separating the steels and fibers when the clutch is pulled in. As far as hours on this setup the clutch has maybe 10 mins worth of riding time on it. I don't think the clutch could be fried, and if it was wouldn't that mean that it would slip (or not grab) and the wheeler wouldn't really go at all?

[chewdogg]

absolutely. If the clutch plates were worn then you would have the opposite problem. This bike is grabbing too much so the root of the problem is somewhere in the clutch plates not separating correctly. to bad you don't have the old fibers you can put back in to try and troubleshoot the new ones.

[Doc Sanders]

Well, we have put the old steels and Fibers back in and the same problem, will not shift to neutral with motor running. We have taken all the slack out of the cable, and the problem of no neutral, and rolling forward with the motor running gets worse. I have noticed that the splined shaft where the lever attaches, when the lever is removed the shaft has almost a quarter turn of slack in it. I can't find a spec for the slack on how much is acceptable,anyone know?? How do I get the ball bearing and Push rod out, so I can remove the splined shaft and check the condition of these parts? since these parts actuate the clutch to separate the plates, this is where I need to look now, but the manual is not specific on how to remove these.

[chewdogg]

doc, it's been awhile since I've had mine apart but I'm fairly certain that if you take your clutch assembly out, disconnect your clutch cable, then when you rotate the clutch actuator arm (external) that will push the ball bearing out (careful not to drop and roll). then, unbolt the external parts on the top left of the crankcase, turn the actuator in towards the center of the bike and remove it you will be able to reach in and remove the pushrod from the clutch side of the bike. can't see any of this stuff being bad but it's not a big deal to take it apart and check it. good luck....

[Doc Sanders]

I have tried everything else, new clutches and steels, old clutches and steels, we have had this clutch apart so many times worn out two lock washers. the basket has been smoothed, the hub is new. Still same result.??? Tried a new basket, but it came in bent so had to send it back. The fibers are not getting apart for what ever reason. I don't know if the shaft is worn, but the free play (you can turn the splined end about 10 minutes,back and fourth looking down on it like a clock, with the lever disconnected) sure seems too much, but we will see. Thanks for the suggestions. If anyone has anything else, I would appreciate it.
Doc

[bbcmudtruck]

I know on the banshee it was possible to weld the ball to the clutch push rod. Is it possible on the YFZ?