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Old 10-16-2009, 04:17 PM   #1 (permalink)
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What do you guys generally go with, that are running the stock swing arm? Mine are toast.......I still need to get it apart to check the carrier for damage. Can I get away with new bearings and seals in the stock carrier?
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Old 10-16-2009, 09:47 PM   #2 (permalink)
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yes, new bearings and seals are all you need, you will get 4 bearings and 2 seals.

do NOT get OEM bearings, they are around 40 bucks a piece, and that doesnt include the seals, or shipping.

go to KB motorsports and get their pivot works kit, or any of the site sponsors, but kenneth really took good care of me.
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Old 10-17-2009, 01:31 AM   #3 (permalink)
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We also use Pivot works on the YFZ's.
But you will have to order P/N 5TG-25317-00-00 SPACER, BEARING seperately.

Many people re-use the spacer between the bearings, but if you do, your second set of bearings won't last as long.

It's only a $12 part.
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Old 10-17-2009, 08:24 AM   #4 (permalink)
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how does that spacer have anything to do with the bearings life span? i've always just threw a ton of grease between the bearings on the outside of the spacer?
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Old 10-17-2009, 09:03 PM   #5 (permalink)
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QUOTE (MustHaveBeenBlue @ Oct 17 2009, 05:24 AM)
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how does that spacer have anything to do with the bearings life span? i've always just threw a ton of grease between the bearings on the outside of the spacer?[/b]
The slang term for that spacer is a "crush tube" it's designed to collapse over the life of the bearings. When this happens, you have to tighten the axle nut more, to keep your hubs tight. Eventually, you are putting too much pressure on the small races of the bearing. Then they will fail.

Only one bearing is seated in a motorcycle hub (now). The 2nd bearing floats, so it is impossible to get the axle assy too tight. I'm thinking this wouldn't be a bad idea to do on a quad.

With that being said, if you are dilligent about maintaining your carrier and it's bearings, and you don't overtighten you axle, you can get away with re-using the spacer a few times.
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Old 10-18-2009, 09:03 AM   #6 (permalink)
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i went to a local bearing store yes bearing store and they got me all 4 bearings for $25 i think they are BP brand i can get the info for you they have been good so far and they told me they are very good bearings much cheaper then oem
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Old 10-18-2009, 07:49 PM   #7 (permalink)
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when mine went down i went on and got a burgard carrier with bearings. it was $175 for a brand new carrier, spacer, bearings and seals already packed and it has a grease jerz. versus $80 for just bearings and seals
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Old 10-18-2009, 10:02 PM   #8 (permalink)
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QUOTE (leveldrummer @ Oct 16 2009, 09:47 PM)
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yes, new bearings and seals are all you need, you will get 4 bearings and 2 seals.

do NOT get OEM bearings, they are around 40 bucks a piece, and that doesnt include the seals, or shipping.

go to KB motorsports and get their pivot works kit, or any of the site sponsors, but kenneth really took good care of me.[/b]
Thanks dude, I'll try PW's out. I got them from KB as well.
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Old 10-23-2009, 03:55 PM   #9 (permalink)
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goallballs.com sells kits that are using the YFZ450R and only uses 2 larger bearings. the bearings are design for forward and side thrust. reason why yamaha switched the R to only 2 large bearings instead of 4. i think the whole kit with seals and bearings is $65 bucks or something. good to know about the spacer DADDIO. ill replace that in my rebuild here shortly
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Old 10-24-2009, 11:23 AM   #10 (permalink)
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QUOTE (Guy With The Truck @ Oct 23 2009, 12:55 PM)
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goallballs.com sells kits that are using the YFZ450R and only uses 2 larger bearings. the bearings are design for forward and side thrust. reason why yamaha switched the R to only 2 large bearings instead of 4. i think the whole kit with seals and bearings is $65 bucks or something. good to know about the spacer DADDIO. ill replace that in my rebuild here shortly[/b]
Be careful with that.......... It's been common knowledge that you can't swap the YFZ and YFZR axles, because of something to do with the bearings. I have not had the time to tear apart a YFZ and R side by side and compare everything, but I did try YFZ bearings in our R ( in an emergengy when OEM R bearings were not redily available) and they only lasted a couple races. They were close (only a couple thousands difference in size) and everything seemed to fit correctly.
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Old 10-24-2009, 06:14 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Bearings have different grades. I'm actually kind of surprised you use pivotworks Daddio. I used them twice and both times the bearings were shot again in about 3 months. This last set of OEM bearings have lasted me just shy of two seasons. And I ride and race a lot. OEM bearings are better then pivot works and /or Allballs. Obviously the dealer overcharges for everything. But if you go to your Local bearing shop, cross-reference the numbers and make sure your getting good quality bearings, you'll pay about $22 a piece instead of $42-$53 from the dealer. You might also be surprised when you get there and the guy already knows what you want from others doing this. When I first tried this I called the guy on the phone and read him the part number off the bearing. He says to me...."what are those...axle bearings for a quad?" Since them I've been buying all bearings from him for about half the price of a dealer.
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Old 11-01-2009, 10:49 PM   #12 (permalink)
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QUOTE (fordfreak$ @ Oct 24 2009, 02:14 PM)
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Bearings have different grades. I'm actually kind of surprised you use pivotworks Daddio. I used them twice and both times the bearings were shot again in about 3 months. This last set of OEM bearings have lasted me just shy of two seasons. And I ride and race a lot. OEM bearings are better then pivot works and /or Allballs. Obviously the dealer overcharges for everything. But if you go to your Local bearing shop, cross-reference the numbers and make sure your getting good quality bearings, you'll pay about $22 a piece instead of $42-$53 from the dealer. You might also be surprised when you get there and the guy already knows what you want from others doing this. When I first tried this I called the guy on the phone and read him the part number off the bearing. He says to me...."what are those...axle bearings for a quad?" Since them I've been buying all bearings from him for about half the price of a dealer.[/b]
you have the stock oem bearing part numbers lying around?
Daddio, as far as looking up P/Ns's online, the carrier for the YFZ and YFZR are both P/N 5TG-25311-20-00 but the bearings and oil seals are different. from flatoutmotorcycles.com parts shark website i can get just the 4 bearings and seals for at a discount $229.50 and from LoneStarRacing can get the carrier w/ new bearings/seals for $231.00 complete.
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Old 11-01-2009, 11:40 PM   #13 (permalink)
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QUOTE (Guy With The Truck @ Nov 1 2009, 07:49 PM)
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you have the stock oem bearing part numbers lying around?
Daddio, as far as looking up P/Ns's online, the carrier for the YFZ and YFZR are both P/N 5TG-25311-20-00 but the bearings and oil seals are different. from flatoutmotorcycles.com parts shark website i can get just the 4 bearings and seals for at a discount $229.50 and from LoneStarRacing can get the carrier w/ new bearings/seals for $231.00 complete.[/b]
Thanks. I never noticed that the part numbers of the carriers themselves were the same.
I've never had a problem with pivot works bearings. They are just KOYO bearings with pivotworks seals in them, so they have their own number on them.

I recomend them for most people, because they are a turn key kit, including seals and o-rings.

Personally, I do get my bearings from McGuire Bearing, now. You have to be careful that you have the correct number and you are using the correct abec grade for the application.
But I still use Pivot Works kits in a pinch, when I don't have time to order bearings.

BTW, my guy at McGuire has not been able to obtain the YFZR bearings. He is telling me that they are probably made just for Yamaha. I run into the same problem all the time trying to buy bearings for our machines, so it was no suprise.

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Old 01-14-2010, 11:25 PM   #14 (permalink)
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anyone got the part number to use at the bearing store. gonna replace the ones on my sons 05. i have always bought all my quad bearings locally at a bearing parts house. way cheaper. i just havent tore it apart yet to check for numbers.

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Old 01-15-2010, 04:03 PM   #15 (permalink)
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QUOTE (quaddad1958 @ Jan 14 2010, 11:25 PM)
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anyone got the part number to use at the bearing store. gonna replace the ones on my sons 05. i have always bought all my quad bearings locally at a bearing parts house. way cheaper. i just havent tore it apart yet to check for numbers.

Mark[/b]
you dont need numbers, just take a bearing in, either they will find the number they need, or they will just measure it with a micrometer... thats what they do around here.
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Old 10-04-2010, 01:03 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I have an '09 YFZR and I pulled my axle bearing carrier out and my factory bearings are shot after 1 year (about 100 hrs. on the bike). So, I read everything on here and talked to a few people and then researched the best way to replace the bearings and seals. To my knowledge there's only 2 choices right now. The OEM bearing and seal kit ($148.14 msrp) or a kit from AllBalls.com ($67.22 msrp).

I spoke at length with Alex at AllBalls and he said they had KML tool up and make a special bearing for them that is the same quality and spec as OEM specifically for the YFZR. ABEC grade 3-5 (he wasn't sure off the top of his head). It's forged and machined with OE quality material. The seals are also special made for the R by TTL. Kit #25-16-12. You can also buy the bearings and seals seperately if you wish.

For you Arizona boys, I just ordered a kit from local All Balls distributor, Lytle Racing group in Tempe. It was $58 and they can get them next day. No shipping cost to me. Their # is 480-966-9595

I'm really glad I found these guys because I was really dreading paying outrageous dealer prices on these things. These bearings have to be specially made and cannot be found at a bearing house. Pivot works doesn't make them at this time either.

I noticed that a few board advertisers said they stock axle bearings for the R although I didn't call them to find out who makes their bearings/kits... Probably All Balls because from my research they're the only company who makes them other than Yamaha. At least proper bearings and not the standard yfz bearings stuffed in an R which is not the way to go.
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Old 10-10-2010, 10:31 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I am in the middle of replacing mine on my 04, and I ordered a Moose kit with the 4 bearings and 2 seals for about $55 from Schwag. Hopefully they hold up. Anyone ever drill a drain hole in the swingarm for draining water out? Mine had a bunch of wet dirt in there when I took it apart.

Otherwise it sounds like packing grease all around the carrier is the way to go?


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Old 10-10-2010, 11:59 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by butch1581 View Post
I am in the middle of replacing mine on my 04, and I ordered a Moose kit with the 4 bearings and 2 seals for about $55 from Schwag. Hopefully they hold up. Anyone ever drill a drain hole in the swingarm for draining water out? Mine had a bunch of wet dirt in there when I took it apart.

Otherwise it sounds like packing grease all around the carrier is the way to go?


I wouldn't drill a hole, that will just allow more dirt and water in. The reason you have water/dirt in there to begin with is because your seals/o-rings were bad which likely contributed to your bearings being bad now. The idea is for the seals and o-rings to keep the inside of your carrier clean and water tight so your bearings don't get contaminated. The bearings are sealed so for the most part so you can pack a whole can of grease in there and it's not really going to make a difference imo. The only place I packed grease was right on the outside of the bearing between the seal.

Note: The All Balls bearing kit I ordered also surprisingly came in "Moose" packaging but it had an "AllBalls" logo on the packaging. So I would assume you could order this kit from moose racing directly. However, I didn't see it on their online catalog, maybe it's too new.
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Old 10-11-2010, 05:49 PM   #19 (permalink)
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that makes sense. There is just this one "water crossing" that we have to go through each time we trail-ride and its like 18" deep water, so I want to limit the damage caused by the water getting in. Those seals just dont seem like they would seal 100% on something that spins?

Anyone tap a grease zerk in there anywhere?
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Old 10-12-2010, 06:32 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Just looked at my packaging.... It says "An All Balls Product" up in the right hand corner of the package. Part number for my 04 is 0215-0169. It lists the 06-09 as being 0215-0168
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