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Old 01-28-2011, 02:09 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Starting an engine after a rebuild / other rebuild Qs

Hey guys,

This winter I rebuilt the top end on my 2007 YFZ. it got a new 12.75:1 CP piston, new valve seats, and porting, along with various ither internals (timing chain, clearances set, new stator cover internals) but anywawys, i was wondering if there is any sort of special process when starting up an engine right after a rebuild. I'm in college, so i really took my time, which would lead me to believe that 99% of the oil is either out of the motor, or chillin' out at the bottom. I did use a 50/50 mix of synthetic oil and WD-40 as assembly lube on the wrist pin and other important things, so im not worried about that. Im mostly worried about the cams and other things that need lubrication immediately but wont have it.

another question, see my mods in my sig. before a HC piston, and porting, i was at 48/168/2.5 out. what jets do you suggest i pick up to tune with? i was thinking a 45 48 and 50, a 165, 168, 170, 172, 175, and i also picked up an adjust-on-the-fly fuel screw so i can fine tune that. My needle is stock. should i get the NCVQ one? which clip do you think?

yet another question. Right now, i have a bottom end with cylinder, a head off the engine, and a bare frame in my basement. which is the best way to get the head back on? I was considering putting the engine in the frame with no head so that i could get sufficient torque on the head bolts.... anyone who has done this before please chime in. this is my first time rebuilding the YFZ.

feel free to ask any questions of me. im sure i left something important out.

THANKS FOR THE HELP!

-Joe
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Old 01-28-2011, 04:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Pour some oil in the head on the cams and such, should be good.
What do you mean 50/50 of wd40?
Jetting probably 48, 172, 2.5 on fuel screw, yes get the needle at probably 3rd clip...
For the was torque you can usually hold the engine enough to get the torque, or you can put it in an put the head on after doesent matter just make sure no dirt can get knocked in as you put it in the bike...
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Old 01-28-2011, 04:25 PM   #3 (permalink)
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You should use some sort of assembly lube which will stick not oil or WD-40 which I have never heard of using for assembling a motor.
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Old 01-28-2011, 04:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
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okay, it wasnt 50/50, i put a little bit of WD40 in some thumper snythetic oil to make a nice assembly lube-like slurry of oily stuff, kinda looked like jelly. ill throw some oil on the cams too.

how much oil should i put in it? because its usually 2L, but thats when some of the oil stays in.....

also, how do i exactly install the head? do i have to do that whole molybdenum disulfide grease process like the manual says or can i get away with reusing that stuff?


b. Apply molybdenum disulfide grease on the
threads and contact surfaces of the bolts
and on both contact surfaces of the washers.

c. Install the washers and bolts.

d. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque in
two or three steps in the proper tightening
sequence as shown.

e. Remove the bolts.

f. Again apply molybdenum disulfide grease
on the threads and contact surfaces of the
bolts and on both contact surfaces of the
washers.

g. Retighten the bolts
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Last edited by Joester; 01-28-2011 at 04:46 PM.
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Old 01-28-2011, 04:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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put in 2l run it and add accordingly.
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Old 01-28-2011, 05:00 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Correct me if I am wrong but I also think your not supposed to break in a motor using synthetic oil something about rings not seating properly.
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Old 01-28-2011, 05:07 PM   #7 (permalink)
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yes. i have 8 quarts of Rotella T organic in my basement, i just used the thumper mix as assembly lube because it is just so lubriscous.
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Old 01-28-2011, 06:07 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Lol, I dunno I woulda just done straight oil or bought assembly lube... Wd40 is flammable, and its not a great lubricant in this use...
Yes do the proper steps for the head bolts, not using grease could cause over torquing of the head.
And iv heard not to use synthetic during break in, but in mine and some others opinion, if oil was so good it would virtually eliminate the ring seating then we would basically not need to ever rebuild our engines.
Iv done it both ways and seen no difference.
Oh iv also recently just done a leak down test on my engine that I broke in on synthetic and it had virtually no leakage.
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Elka triple rate front & back, Houser +2 arms, +1 swinger & +2 stem, G-force axle, Streamline lines, wave rotors, AC nerfs, IMS pegs, douglas beadlocks, MXR6 tires, Pro taper bars, ASV levers, Gibson stablizer, MP twist.
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Old 01-28-2011, 06:45 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Yeah just something I have heard about so just wanted to throw that out there. I agree WD-40 is a bad lube for this use. it seems the OP bought a lot of really nice parts (like a CP piston) if it were me I would have sprung open my wallet (what $5 maybe) for a tube of assembly lube.
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Old 01-28-2011, 07:06 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Torquing the head bolts is extremely important. I believe you also need to get new ones, since they are torque to yield, meaning they stretch at you tighten them. If you reuse them the torque specs are all wrong and they could break. You must use moly grease, but engine oil will work too. I would break it in with conventional oil, not synthetic. Oil up the cams very well. I would not put oil in the cylinder, it can get into the ring lands, burn, and gum up the rings. If you lubed the cylinder well enough when building you won't have any problems. Lube the cylinder with just a couple drops of oil, and each ring with a drop of oil.

Before starting, turn over the motor with the gas off and spark plug disconnected to get oil flowing. Then hook it all back up and start it. The first few minutes are the most important for the rings to seat. Don't let it idle for an extended period of time, and don't rev it to the moon either. Put a couple heat cycles on it before you really open it up. Once broken in keep an eye on the exhaust and make sure it isn't burning oil (white smoke).

Good luck!
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Old 01-28-2011, 08:49 PM   #11 (permalink)
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yeah, i guess i did kinda goof by not buying assembly lube but im tellin' ya the mix of WD and thumper synthetic was like a thick oil, almost like assembly lube.

I'll head up to my dealer to see if they have those bolts tomorrow, but the service manual says nothing about replacing them...

where would i get M-D grease?
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Old 01-28-2011, 09:13 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I was reading post on here abouthead bolts and most people dont replace them their first rebuild.
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Old 01-28-2011, 09:18 PM   #13 (permalink)
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ok, im also talking to the person who built my head, i assume he knows quite a bit about head installation :D
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Old 01-28-2011, 09:33 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickmell View Post
I was reading post on here abouthead bolts and most people dont replace them their first rebuild.
You're always supposed to replace TTY (torque to yield bolts). I realize the service manual doesn't say to, but I think/hope that's an oversight. I'm sure people have gotten away without replacing them, but it's not the best idea, and they aren't that expensive.
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Old 01-28-2011, 09:42 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Im not saying you shouldnt replace them I just read that alot of people dont. sports plaza has them for like $5 a piece btw
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Old 01-29-2011, 02:41 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Cheap insurance just do it right the first time and replace the head bolts.
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Old 01-29-2011, 08:16 PM   #17 (permalink)
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alright guys i got the head on, but i reused the bolts per advice of my builder and the yamaha dealer mechanic. they both said it would be fine to reuse them

so i had bought a CP piston and with it a gasket kit. the gasket kit came with various gaskets and a small baggie of copper/brass washers. Some of them were for the 3-way oil passage connector bolts, but there are 2 very small ones and 1 that is about the size of a dime, with a chunk out of the side of it, so it looks like a wide half moon. i dont know where any of the 3 go, do you?

and lastly, this is cam modded, right? piston is at TDC and lobes are pointing at about 30 degrees outward and upwards.


I can do the cam mod even with the 12.75:1 pison correct?
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