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Old 04-29-2006, 10:24 PM   #1 (permalink)
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After my recent crank bearing failure, i split the cases to fix the problem. while i was in there i decided to go ahead and do the oil mod. Thought i might show some pictures of how i did it. it is relativly simple and with a few tools and some machine know how, you should be able to accomplish this in a couple of hours. anyway, here are the pics

Before i started -right case half- O-ring to be installed


Everything taped up, this is the crank side where the jet will be threaded in



Set up to be drilled. Went a little tape happy, i hate crunchy bearings! notice that the hole is not drilled straight in, it is on a 2-Axis tilt.





Oring surface being cut- Modified the drill bit to prevent a taper-idealy a counterbore should be used, i was just to lazy to go out and spend the money.



After oring surface cut out



after the the squirter area was drilled and tapped



Picture of both the jet and oring in


hope this helps anyone thinking about doing it.
I spent about 15 dollars on all of the drill bits, taps, jet, and orings
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Old 04-30-2006, 01:58 AM   #2 (permalink)
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thanks for the pics

got some questions for you. first of, what size jet did you go with? and what does the o-ring seal up against?
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Old 04-30-2006, 04:37 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by yaidunno@Apr 29 2006, 09:58 PM
thanks for the pics*

got some questions for you.* first of, what size jet did you go with?* and what does the o-ring seal up against?
[snapback]418253[/snapback]
Went with the mikuni 87.5 small diamter jet. $2 dollars at local yamaha. the oring was the same one that is used to seal the oil filter housing (Part # 93210-07135-00). was like $1 at yamaha.
The O-ring seals the backside of the oilfilter housing. because there is now oil flowing through this hole you have to seal it, any leaks and your engine oil will take the path of least resistance. meaning you will not have any oil squirting through the jet, and instead you will just be lubricating the bottom of your case (good waste of oil pressure).

this is the picture of the clutch side outer case half.



Close up of the oil filter area. the red dot represents where you must drill. on the backside of this area is where the oring seats


this is the backside of the oilfilter area. on this side is where the oring will but up against the surface to make a seal. the red dot is where you drill through from the otherside.



As for the size of the jet you can go up or down in size if you prefer. based on viscosity of the oil when warm, oil pressure, and crosssectional area of the nozzle (the jet) this size produces an excellent squirter. it drops the overall oil pressure very little while providing vital lubrication to the wristpin and lower rod bearing. if you are not comfortable tapping and inserting a jet, a .035-.030 hole can be drilled. keep in mind that this is a tiny hole and risk of breaking the drill bit goes up. if you do decided to go with the jet, a M5 + 0.8 pitch tap will be needed accompanied by a 7/32 drill bit. it is important to use a good quality tap, if you break a tap you will hate life trying to get it out.

EDIT: it is a .8 pitch not a .08 my bad
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Old 04-30-2006, 06:24 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I sent mine to Kenz Cycle Tech to have it done. It was worth the $65 to me to let them do it so I wouldn't have to worry about screwing it up. Also, they didn't install a jet in mine, it's just got a hole.
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Old 04-30-2006, 10:35 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by gtilley45@Apr 30 2006, 02:24 PM
I sent mine to Kenz Cycle Tech to have it done.* It was worth the $65 to me to let them do it so I wouldn't have to worry about screwing it up.* Also, they didn't install a jet in mine, it's just got a hole.
[snapback]418436[/snapback]
really, it is not that hard. but then again, 65 bucks isnt much when you weigh it against messing up your case. its just a post to guide others in their journey to DIY oil mod. besides i am mr. impatient and couldnt bring myself to wait a week to get my case back.
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Old 05-01-2006, 08:25 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by pooperscouper@Apr 30 2006, 06:35 PM
really, it is not that hard. but then again, 65 bucks isnt much when you weigh it against messing up your case.* its just a post to guide others in their journey to DIY oil mod. besides i am mr. impatient and couldnt bring myself to wait a week to get my case back.
[snapback]418573[/snapback]

Hey, if you have the machinery and know how to do it I'm all for a do-it-yourself job. I just didn't have anything other than a cordless drill and a guess of where and how big of a hole to drill so I boxed it up and sent it to Kenz. Plus, I suck at the mechanical stuff.
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Old 05-01-2006, 08:33 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Mind if I bother you with a few PM's when I go to install my WR Kit this summer?

Excellent write-up....I'm tempted to "pin" this but I'll have to consult with higher-ups to do so.
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Old 05-01-2006, 08:48 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by YFZ450alterego@May 1 2006, 04:33 PM
Mind if I bother you with a few PM's when I go to install my WR Kit this summer?

Excellent write-up....I'm tempted to "pin" this but I'll have to consult with higher-ups to do so.
[snapback]419025[/snapback]
This summer, why the wait?. i dont mind questions, i should be good at the wr install since i am currently in the middle of mine. the only hard part i came across was getting the crank out of the bearing. that involved a BFH and some muscle.

I actually had a buddy that did his oil mod with a dremel and a cordless drill. i would be a little hesitant to do that but it worked for him, as far as we know.

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Old 05-01-2006, 08:52 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by pooperscouper@May 1 2006, 08:48 PM
This summer, why the wait?. i dont mind questions, i should be good at the wr install since i am currently in the middle of mine. the only hard part i came across was getting the crank out of the bearing. that involved a BFH and some muscle.

I actually had a buddy that did his oil mod with a dremel and a cordless drill. i would be a little hesitant to do that but it worked for him, as far as we know.
[snapback]419034[/snapback]
Why am I waiting????? It's perfect temps out for riding right now and don't want the down time. I've never been inside a motor (but I ain't skeerd ) and I like to take my time and do it right if you know what I mean.

When it's 100 degrees outside and 99% humidity is perfect time to do it.
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Old 05-03-2006, 01:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by YFZ450alterego@May 1 2006, 04:52 PM
Why am I waiting?????* It's perfect temps out for riding right now and don't want the down time.* I've never been inside a motor (but I ain't skeerd ) and I like to take my time and do it right if you know what I mean.

When it's 100 degrees outside and 99% humidity is perfect time to do it.
[snapback]419039[/snapback]
that makes sense, it is still freaking cold here but getting better.

anybody know what the oil pressure is in the yfz's? i calculated it at 40psi but to get more precise calculations i was wondering if anybody had a good idea. that way i can actually test the calculations on the jet size. at 40 psi that thing really squirts, dont think i will have a siezed wristpin now!!!!

yamaha dealership just called, my wr crank is in, got to go.
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Old 05-10-2006, 09:49 AM   #11 (permalink)
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How is the jet installed/secured? why did you go with a jet and not just a hole?

I'd be afraid of the jet coming lose and causing all hell.
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Old 05-10-2006, 11:04 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by kuz28@May 10 2006, 05:49 AM
How is the jet installed/secured? why did you go with a jet and not just a hole?

I'd be afraid of the jet coming lose and causing all hell.
[snapback]423497[/snapback]
i drilled and tapped. also faced the surface so it is true to the hole. i dont think it is going to come out. actually with the amount of locktite i put on it i am afraid it is not going to come out if i change jet sizes. which i dont actually forsee. i was able to test the oil pressure coming out of the jet and it looks like it will do a pretty dang good job of getting the wristpin lubed.

The reason i went with the jet and not the hole is because of the jet profile. a hole has two right edges and the begining and end of the hole. this causes more turbulent flow. with the jet it is a dual nozzel converging in the begining to up the pressure, and the diverging out of the jet to get the proper spray pettern. basically, i liked the fluid dynamics of the jet vs. just a hole. i know what your thinking i guess i just put a LOT more thought into something that is very simple.
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Old 05-14-2006, 04:42 PM   #13 (permalink)
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What size drill bit is used for the o-ring? Did you just guess on the depth of the counterbore for the o-ring? EDIT: I can get that size from measuring the oil filer cover but post the size anyway.

And can you explain the 2-axis tilt???? Is it left to right of the case along with forward and back?



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Old 05-14-2006, 10:42 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by YFZ450alterego@May 14 2006, 12:42 PM
What size drill bit is used for the o-ring?* Did you just guess on the depth of the counterbore for the o-ring?* * EDIT:* I can get that size from measuring the oil filer cover but post the size anyway.

And can you explain the 2-axis tilt????* Is it left to right of the case along with forward and back?
[snapback]425643[/snapback]
15/32 is the drill bit, but you have to use a dremel and make the outer edges of the drill bit flat so it will not taper the hole and give the oring a good mating surface.

2 axis tilt. yes left to right and foward and back....i sent you a pm with the details. might have to post it on here for everyone. once i figure out a better way to describe it
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Old 05-14-2006, 11:10 PM   #15 (permalink)
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here is a pic of the drill bit


here you can see the case half tilted back. to the right of the picture is the inside of the case.


here you can see how the right side of the case is higer than the left. this is to get the correct angle of the jet so that it will hit the wristpin you are looking at the inside of the case
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Old 05-15-2006, 06:57 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Thanks!
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Old 05-15-2006, 07:07 PM   #17 (permalink)
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here is a pic of what you should use to do the oring surface instead of a "custom" drill bit.
This is a 15/32 counterbore, with a 7/32 pilot. it actually works about perfect that the pilot will hit the end of the hole at the correct oring depth.
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Old 05-18-2006, 06:04 PM   #18 (permalink)
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You used a 11/64th drill bit for the tap correct?
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Old 05-18-2006, 06:52 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by YFZ450alterego@May 18 2006, 02:04 PM
You used a 11/64th drill bit for the tap correct?
[snapback]427995[/snapback]
Nope, i used a diamond bit for my dremel yeah 11/64 is the correct bit for the Tap<--- make sure this is a high quality tap, you break one and you are going to be ...did you end up finding that jet locally?

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Old 05-18-2006, 06:57 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by pooperscouper@May 18 2006, 06:52 PM
Nope, i used a diamond bit for my dremel yeah 11/64 is the correct bit for the Tap<--- make sure this is a high quality tap, you break one and you are going to be* ...did you end up finding that jet locally?
[snapback]428022[/snapback]
Nope! My local dealers suck for keeing parts in stock. Let's just say they didn't know what a NCVQ needle was and when I told them what I was going to do with it (after showing them it on the microfiche (sp) ) they said it wouldn't work in my quad.

I walked out after that.
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