DASA Jetting - Yamaha YFZ450 Forum : YFZ450, YFZ450R, YFZ450X Forums
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-12-2011, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
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DASA Jetting

Hi guys,

Could you point me in the right direction as I don't know much about jetting, I have been using the search button but I think I'll ask for a better answer.

Just got a DASA classic exhaust (no quiet core). Specs:

2007 YFZ 450 SE
Zip tie mod
K&N filter and outwear, lid on, too dusty
Got the ncvq needle and air screw but have not installed them, will install along with the jet change.
Riding from 1700 to 2500 ft

Any idea on what jets should I buy? where to start?

Thanks
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-12-2011, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quadyfz View Post
Hi guys,

Could you point me in the right direction as I don't know much about jetting, I have been using the search button but I think I'll ask for a better answer.

Just got a DASA classic exhaust (no quiet core). Specs:

2007 YFZ 450 SE
Zip tie mod
K&N filter and outwear, lid on, too dusty
Got the ncvq needle and air screw but have not installed them, will install along with the jet change.
Riding from 1700 to 2500 ft

Any idea on what jets should I buy? where to start?

Thanks
45 Pilot
4th on the NCVQ needle
165MJ

That should get you close with the air box lid.



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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-12-2011, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Kenneth, I'll try that.

Do you sell the quiet core by itself?

Is it recommended to install one? I don't have sound/ noise restrictions, will I nottice a lot of noise decrease and power?

Thanks
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-13-2011, 11:21 AM
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The Quiet core will restrict the exhaust, if you have no noise restrictions I wouldn't install it. The reduction in sound is not that much,I have 1 in case I get caught and I don't think I would pass a sound check anyway with it , I ride in Oregon.

06 yfz 450 50th anv. H.I.D. lights, DASA, MMAD , +3 stroker 13.5 piston FCI intake
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-13-2011, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
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I guess I'll leave it without and see if I get use to it.

Thanks
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-26-2011, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
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YFZ Vs TRX

Hi guys, looking for more advice. I think I still need to twist somthing. HEre is what I did:

I first installed the exhaust, ncvq needle (4th clip), air mix screw (2.5 turns), lid on. I did not have the jets so we take it for a ride with the stock jets.
I did feel a better performance in power, low end was good. When I got to 5th, wot, the gas was cutting so got to let go the throttle, also had some backfire when backing off the throttle. I still managed to beat my pals (every time), one raptor 660 and a Honda TRX 450R stock (just a k&N and no lid, quiet core or sparks arrestor).


This saturday I got to install the jets (165 Main, 45). Took it for a ride. I did not nottice any backfire when letting go the throttle but I still feel that the gas was cutting at max throttle (3rd, 4th and 5th shift).My friend (Honda TRX) was also there and changed his jets, he is still waiting for his exhaust (Dasa as well) but decided to change the jets since we had all the tools out, he went to a 170M and 48 (we pulled from his quad 128M and 42).

So, we went for a quick test, drag race. This time he beat me (3 out of 3). Other friends there told me that my quad was poping when accelerating (I did not nottice it). I went from 2.5 to 3 turns on the air needle. Got a little better- I think, according to what they said. Race again, lost again.
Next I took the lid, race again, beat him 3 out 3, not by much but got him. I was told that there was no popping at all this time.




Now, should I go up on the main? 170 as well? or should I remove the lid? I don't know if that would be a good idea as ther is a lot dust usually where go go, I do clean the air filter after each ride but just don't know if I should remove it.

Hope this all makes sense, sorry for all the questions, I'm still a newbie when jetting.

Thanks
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-26-2011, 02:54 PM
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If you took the lid off and it ran better you are rich with the lid on. You would need to drop a jet size down if you run the lid.

2006 SE-DASA Classic Full System,FCI, Cam mod, Houser +2 stem, Flexx Bars 12* ATV Bend, Fox Floats.

Jetting Specs: 42p- 170m-3rd clip NCVQ 2.0 out, 0-500'.

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-27-2011, 11:49 PM
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I'm at sea level-2,000 ft and this is what I'm running with FCI w/ no lid and Dasa. Seems to be real close.

170m
48p
2.5 turns of the A/F screw
3rd clip on the needle
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-27-2011, 11:52 PM
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-28-2011, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
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Instead of dropping one size on the main, could I just go up 1 notch on the needle to lower it and make it leaner? or dropping to 160 would be better?

I'm thinking about changing the lid to a K&N powerlid. But it just seems to much money for a lid. Anyone heard about this type of lids? Are they worth the money or maybe I worry too much about dust and should take the lid off and clean the filter more often?

Either way, I think i'm going to get my ass kick when my friend mounts his DASA.
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-28-2011, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quadyfz View Post
Instead of dropping one size on the main, could I just go up 1 notch on the needle to lower it and make it leaner? or dropping to 160 would be better?

I'm thinking about changing the lid to a K&N powerlid. But it just seems to much money for a lid. Anyone heard about this type of lids? Are they worth the money or maybe I worry too much about dust and should take the lid off and clean the filter more often?

Either way, I think i'm going to get my ass kick when my friend mounts his DASA.
1) The main jet and the needle control 2 different circuits in the carb. Main 3/4 to WOT, needle 1/4 to 3/4. Adjusting the needle is not going to do a damn thing at wide open throttle... So do what the other guys told you, drop your main a size, if you want to run with the lid on.

2) K&N is meh, google pro-tec air box lid, those are awesome.

3) You worry too much about the dust, if you want the best performance/protection, get the outwears for your filter (I forgot if you had the foam one or not, if you have foam UNI, you don't have to worry about outwears), get the air box lid, and go with that... However, a ton of people here will tell you, that they run their stuff through sand dust, and god knows what else, with the lids/air boxes off, and they are just fine... Just have to clean your stuff often.

There is no bandaid for stupidity.

Part of the Zbros Racing rider support program. Thank you!!!

2005
HC piston, 06 crank, rick stator, zip tie mod, cam mod, oil mod, FCI, DASA 99db, Dynatech FS CDI, pro flow air box lid, R/D fuel screw.
PEP ZPS LT rear, ARS/FX Exit LT MX front end with stem flag, roll design +1.5 stem, precision stabilizer and clamps, LSR +4 axle, CF1 hipers with razor2, hermann racing swinger, DG nerfs.
Next rebuild: Head work, MMAD warpspeed cam, carb bore, dyno.
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-29-2011, 01:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quadyfz View Post
Thanks Kenneth, I'll try that.

Do you sell the quiet core by itself?

Is it recommended to install one? I don't have sound/ noise restrictions, will I nottice a lot of noise decrease and power?

Thanks
I don't recommend a quiet core inside a DASA exhaust. The quiet core decreases performance and canister packing life. We sell them separately

Quote:
Originally Posted by dchjort View Post
The Quiet core will restrict the exhaust, if you have no noise restrictions I wouldn't install it. The reduction in sound is not that much,I have 1 in case I get caught and I don't think I would pass a sound check anyway with it , I ride in Oregon.
The quiet core should bring it down to 96-97DB.

Quote:
Originally Posted by quadyfz View Post
I guess I'll leave it without and see if I get use to it.

Thanks
You should be aboard the YFZ with a helmet on it's normally the people around you who don't like loud exhaust.

Quote:
Originally Posted by quadyfz View Post
Hi guys, looking for more advice. I think I still need to twist somthing. HEre is what I did:

I first installed the exhaust, ncvq needle (4th clip), air mix screw (2.5 turns), lid on. I did not have the jets so we take it for a ride with the stock jets.
I did feel a better performance in power, low end was good. When I got to 5th, wot, the gas was cutting so got to let go the throttle, also had some backfire when backing off the throttle. I still managed to beat my pals (every time), one raptor 660 and a Honda TRX 450R stock (just a k&N and no lid, quiet core or sparks arrestor).


This saturday I got to install the jets (165 Main, 45). Took it for a ride. I did not nottice any backfire when letting go the throttle but I still feel that the gas was cutting at max throttle (3rd, 4th and 5th shift).My friend (Honda TRX) was also there and changed his jets, he is still waiting for his exhaust (Dasa as well) but decided to change the jets since we had all the tools out, he went to a 170M and 48 (we pulled from his quad 128M and 42).

So, we went for a quick test, drag race. This time he beat me (3 out of 3). Other friends there told me that my quad was poping when accelerating (I did not nottice it). I went from 2.5 to 3 turns on the air needle. Got a little better- I think, according to what they said. Race again, lost again.
Next I took the lid, race again, beat him 3 out 3, not by much but got him. I was told that there was no popping at all this time.




Now, should I go up on the main? 170 as well? or should I remove the lid? I don't know if that would be a good idea as ther is a lot dust usually where go go, I do clean the air filter after each ride but just don't know if I should remove it.

Hope this all makes sense, sorry for all the questions, I'm still a newbie when jetting.

Thanks
I would remove the lid, and bump it up to a 170 MJ. The lid is worth between 2-3 horsepower.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dust n' u View Post
If you took the lid off and it ran better you are rich with the lid on. You would need to drop a jet size down if you run the lid.
True, I would also look at the spark plug for reference.


Quote:
Originally Posted by quadyfz View Post
Instead of dropping one size on the main, could I just go up 1 notch on the needle to lower it and make it leaner? or dropping to 160 would be better?

I'm thinking about changing the lid to a K&N powerlid. But it just seems to much money for a lid. Anyone heard about this type of lids? Are they worth the money or maybe I worry too much about dust and should take the lid off and clean the filter more often?

Either way, I think i'm going to get my ass kick when my friend mounts his DASA.
Just remember to do one thing at a time, and don't get carried away changing multiple settings at once. If your determine to run with the air box lid try a 162MJ and leave the needle alone. I'd suggest cleaning the filter more often and removing the lid all together.

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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-30-2011, 03:41 PM
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I definitly notice the power loss and the shorter life span of packing with the quiet core, When riding at Silver Lake I ran the QC becasue of restrictions and it noticed the power loss mainly down low, Packing was junk after 10-15 hours with a quite core in it. I run no air box at all at the dunes, trails, everywhere and haven't had any problems yet. just be sure to run a good outerwear


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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-30-2011, 03:56 PM
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what is it with dasa. packing? must suck since have the og packing in my hmf for over 4 years.

buddy just got one new not long ago and its just as loud as mine so its still doing its job.

06 YFZ450 Mixxer pump gas stock valve 480. Cp 13.75:1 Barkers exhaust. Stage 1 hotcams. FCI no box. Sredrum 42. 07+ case/oil mod + 4hp 3tq. 21x12x8 7 paddle extremes. 25:1 klotz mix for racy odor.
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-30-2011, 04:04 PM
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I don't know but the packing in mine blew out on me and destroyed my spark arrestor mid day Saturday the last weekend I was at SL so I ran over to the store and all they had was moose packing so I threw that in there. 3 hours later no packing, can is all burned up and sticker on the can is junk. Kinda bummed out only had it on the quad for a few months and now it looks like shit.


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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-30-2011, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the info. I'll take out the lid a just go with the K&N and outwear, I'll clean it after each ride.

On the packing, I heard that the GYTR packaging will work fine. I think I'll try it after 20 hrs or so.
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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-30-2011, 04:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quadyfz View Post
Thanks for all the info. I'll take out the lid a just go with the K&N and outwear, I'll clean it after each ride.

On the packing, I heard that the GYTR packaging will work fine. I think I'll try it after 20 hrs or so.
If you get the DASA steel wool packing, that they have on their web site. It will last about 2-2.5 times longer then the old style packing they sell.

There is no bandaid for stupidity.

Part of the Zbros Racing rider support program. Thank you!!!

2005
HC piston, 06 crank, rick stator, zip tie mod, cam mod, oil mod, FCI, DASA 99db, Dynatech FS CDI, pro flow air box lid, R/D fuel screw.
PEP ZPS LT rear, ARS/FX Exit LT MX front end with stem flag, roll design +1.5 stem, precision stabilizer and clamps, LSR +4 axle, CF1 hipers with razor2, hermann racing swinger, DG nerfs.
Next rebuild: Head work, MMAD warpspeed cam, carb bore, dyno.
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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-30-2011, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quadyfz View Post
Thanks for all the info. I'll take out the lid a just go with the K&N and outwear, I'll clean it after each ride.

On the packing, I heard that the GYTR packaging will work fine. I think I'll try it after 20 hrs or so.


Just keep an eye on it. It's really easy to pull the end cap off of them. Dasa sell's the packing on their website for $25. It does seem to be exactly like the GYTR packing, Not sure how much that is tho.


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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-30-2011, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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Here are some prices for the GYTR packaing, depends on the length, What's the length of the DASA? 19"

2006 Yamaha YFZ450 Yamaha GYTR Muffler Packing Cartridge at Powersports1
The good thing about the GYTR is that is already rolled.


I just check the DASA steel wool wrap (34.95). You have to use this plus the regular packing pillow (24.95)?
I assume that you dont have to change the steel wool wrap everytime you change the packing pillow, wonder how long will it last.
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-30-2011, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quadyfz View Post
Here are some prices for the GYTR packaing, depends on the length, What's the length of the DASA? 19"

2006 Yamaha YFZ450 Yamaha GYTR Muffler Packing Cartridge at Powersports1
The good thing about the GYTR is that is already rolled.


I just check the DASA steel wool wrap (34.95). You have to use this plus the regular packing pillow (24.95)?
I assume that you dont have to change the steel wool wrap everytime you change the packing pillow, wonder how long will it last.

34.95 comes with the packing pillow. So it's 34.95 all together. Don't know how long steel wool will last just yet, still running on my first one, will be repacking it when the season is over.

There is no bandaid for stupidity.

Part of the Zbros Racing rider support program. Thank you!!!

2005
HC piston, 06 crank, rick stator, zip tie mod, cam mod, oil mod, FCI, DASA 99db, Dynatech FS CDI, pro flow air box lid, R/D fuel screw.
PEP ZPS LT rear, ARS/FX Exit LT MX front end with stem flag, roll design +1.5 stem, precision stabilizer and clamps, LSR +4 axle, CF1 hipers with razor2, hermann racing swinger, DG nerfs.
Next rebuild: Head work, MMAD warpspeed cam, carb bore, dyno.
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