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Old 09-13-2011, 06:23 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Raptor 250 performance upgrades

Ok, I've tried a couple difference searches with no luck, so if I'm missing something just point me in the right direction.

I want to upgrade my girlfriends bone stock '08 Raptor 250... nothing too extensive, just the usual bolt-ons: exhaust, intake, re-jet, plus any tips or tricks I should know about.

So let me know what aftermarket stuff you have and if you like it, and/or what jetting would give it a little more kick. Thanks in advance!
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Old 11-29-2011, 11:56 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I really liked the full FMF exhaust with the FMF jet kit...also, upgrade the tires

I would get some nice Maxxis tires for some good traction, you could get the mikuni carb for like 200 bucks...has better pull
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Old 11-30-2011, 01:33 PM   #3 (permalink)
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CTRacing.com did a project raptor 250. there is a video on their website.
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Old 11-30-2011, 11:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I think Tom at TC Racing made a pipe for the Rappy 250. Give him a call. www.tcracingengines.com
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Old 07-05-2012, 01:12 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Anyone have any expereince modding these things? I'm going to mod my womans, just a pipe jet filter.
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Old 07-05-2012, 02:42 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I just put on a Barker's full exhaust, vortex filter and used the gytr jet kit. I changed to a 13 on the front sprocket per a recommendation because this is a sand bike mainly. The Barker's our a nice system. My boy put a short cell phone video on youtube - Raptor 250 Barker's Exhaust - YouTube.
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Old 07-05-2012, 03:22 PM   #7 (permalink)
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My wife is on her second Rappy 250, first one was stolen, but at least it allowed me to experiment more with the second one.

First, if you care about saving money just do a slip on, factory header is not bad and in my opinion better than some of the aftermarket ones. There is a DG slip on on eBay for $150.

Intake- cut the screen out below the filter, make sure to clean up the edges good. Replace the stock filter with a twin air if you want to change that.

THE BEST MONEY SPENT- 10.5:1 piston and camshaft. I used the Vito's kit, it is $220 with gaskets, if you have never done this before, don't be scared, set up a date and have her help you. I did a lot of research, found some people having issues with the Hotcams in these 250's. But the Wiseco, Web and Vito's cams are good. You could probably do 11:1 compression but 10.5:1 ensures reliability, and I must say the wife and I are impressed. The exhaust note has even changed.

We did pick up a Procom CDI, not sure how much it helped with but I don't hit the rev limiter anymore :) my wife prob never does anyways.

We also got a wider axle and front suspension, parking brake delete and front grab bar. And are deciding on tires (the stock rears are garbage).

Also, I ended up sticking with the stock carburetor needle on the second one and she runs great, don't waste money on the GYTR jet kit it probably will not have the jets you need anyway.

Get rid of the fuel heater on the carb, it makes for faster removal, frees up about 10 watts and does not affect starting at all.

Hope this helps, and if you have any more questions just let me know.
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Old 07-06-2012, 08:28 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camshaft2007yfz View Post
My wife is on her second Rappy 250, first one was stolen, but at least it allowed me to experiment more with the second one.

First, if you care about saving money just do a slip on, factory header is not bad and in my opinion better than some of the aftermarket ones. There is a DG slip on on eBay for $150.

Intake- cut the screen out below the filter, make sure to clean up the edges good. Replace the stock filter with a twin air if you want to change that.

THE BEST MONEY SPENT- 10.5:1 piston and camshaft. I used the Vito's kit, it is $220 with gaskets, if you have never done this before, don't be scared, set up a date and have her help you. I did a lot of research, found some people having issues with the Hotcams in these 250's. But the Wiseco, Web and Vito's cams are good. You could probably do 11:1 compression but 10.5:1 ensures reliability, and I must say the wife and I are impressed. The exhaust note has even changed.

We did pick up a Procom CDI, not sure how much it helped with but I don't hit the rev limiter anymore :) my wife prob never does anyways.

We also got a wider axle and front suspension, parking brake delete and front grab bar. And are deciding on tires (the stock rears are garbage).

Also, I ended up sticking with the stock carburetor needle on the second one and she runs great, don't waste money on the GYTR jet kit it probably will not have the jets you need anyway.

Get rid of the fuel heater on the carb, it makes for faster removal, frees up about 10 watts and does not affect starting at all.

Hope this helps, and if you have any more questions just let me know.

What does the fuel heater look like? I'm thinking of a Motowroks full sytem, KB has them for real cheap on their website. But I also like Barkers.
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Old 07-06-2012, 11:50 AM   #9 (permalink)
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What does the fuel heater look like? I'm thinking of a Motowroks full sytem, KB has them for real cheap on their website. But I also like Barkers.
The fuel heater itself threads into the bottom of the carburetor. It is brass with a male electrical connector on it. It has a 10 or 12 mm (I don't remember at the moment) hex head and can be unthreaded from the carb and just left off. In doing this you will also notice that there is a grounding plate that comes off as well. This is all for the fuel heater. The harness is about 12 in long, I have unplugged it completely and put a dab of silicon in the connector. I believe The fuel heater was to help with starting in colder climates, although we have rode in the 30's up here in AK without any issues.

I would think either of those exhausts would be good. There are a lot of good options.
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Old 07-06-2012, 01:25 PM   #10 (permalink)
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The fuel heater itself threads into the bottom of the carburetor. It is brass with a male electrical connector on it. It has a 10 or 12 mm (I don't remember at the moment) hex head and can be unthreaded from the carb and just left off. In doing this you will also notice that there is a grounding plate that comes off as well. This is all for the fuel heater. The harness is about 12 in long, I have unplugged it completely and put a dab of silicon in the connector. I believe The fuel heater was to help with starting in colder climates, although we have rode in the 30's up here in AK without any issues.

I would think either of those exhausts would be good. There are a lot of good options.

Ok thanks, I'm going to look at that for sure. Let me know what tires you get, and what size. I was thinking of going to a 18 inch Holeshot MXR on the back. But a couple of people said that might reduce ground clearance for trail riding in northern Michigan. Your right the stockers are crap.
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Old 07-06-2012, 01:48 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Ok thanks, I'm going to look at that for sure. Let me know what tires you get, and what size. I was thinking of going to a 18 inch Holeshot MXR on the back. But a couple of people said that might reduce ground clearance for trail riding in northern Michigan. Your right the stockers are crap.
What part of northern Michigan? I am from the owosso area but grew up riding around Bull Gap and the cedarville-Pickford area in the U.P.

I would definately stick with the 19's. We are actually looking at 20's, maybe some Dunlops from the YFZ's. We tried some 18's and the ground clearance became a big issue on the trails and in the sand, she is still learning how to handle ruts but even I would get high centered a lot.
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Old 07-06-2012, 02:24 PM   #12 (permalink)
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What part of northern Michigan? I am from the owosso area but grew up riding around Bull Gap and the cedarville-Pickford area in the U.P.

I would definately stick with the 19's. We are actually looking at 20's, maybe some Dunlops from the YFZ's. We tried some 18's and the ground clearance became a big issue on the trails and in the sand, she is still learning how to handle ruts but even I would get high centered a lot.
Not sure really, was thinking St Helens for starters. Also was thinking the oscoda area to. Do you have any recomendations? I grew up in Grand Blanc, and live in Fenton now.
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Old 07-06-2012, 04:29 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Not sure really, was thinking St Helens for starters. Also was thinking the oscoda area to. Do you have any recomendations? I grew up in Grand Blanc, and live in Fenton now.
There is a lot of good riding in that area. I think Bull Gap is just north of St. Helen's, that was really fun riding, but I was young and didn't even know where we were a lot of the time
We used to drive up 127 until we saw a trail.
If you can make it to silver lake that is fun, too.
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Old 07-10-2012, 11:34 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Forgot to mention, if you are looking for a serious intake upgrade, Quadcommand makes a "Velocity" intake for the Raptor 250. I have had a couple on my YFZ's and liked them. Only downside in this case, is that you have to hack up the air box. I'm probably going to give it a shot and I'll leave some feedback.
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Old 07-11-2012, 06:53 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Forgot to mention, if you are looking for a serious intake upgrade, Quadcommand makes a "Velocity" intake for the Raptor 250. I have had a couple on my YFZ's and liked them. Only downside in this case, is that you have to hack up the air box. I'm probably going to give it a shot and I'll leave some feedback.
Yeah report back on how it works out for sure.
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Old 04-06-2013, 01:20 PM   #16 (permalink)
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This is pretty out of date but I wanted to update in case someone cares.
The original Raptor 250 was stolen. Second quad we've had stolen (keep them locked up and INSIDE). I didn't get a chance to get the intake, but we did get another raptor. This one made it out about 3 times before the wrecked it. The wife was uninjured. I am going to try to straighten the frame myself.
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Old 04-06-2013, 01:38 PM   #17 (permalink)
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If the frame is bent it's a throw away. Should be able to find a good frame on line for a couple hundred. Since you got the quad apart you should put a gusset kit in to it. The frames a pretty week in stock form. I have built many fully built mx raptors from mild to wild so if you need some help let me know. Hope you have better luck !!
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Old 04-06-2013, 02:03 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Thanks Tye, I have been looking and haven't found a frame for under 600 shipped, not saying they're not there. I know it would make sense to toss the frame, but i'm good with steel and I don't think the stock frame could get any more weak (like you said). It's just a matter of getting it straight and I was planning on gusseting. Hell, I'll add 10 lbs to it if I have, too lol. Is there a specific reason to toss the frame or is it just taboo lol?
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Old 04-06-2013, 02:21 PM   #19 (permalink)
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No not taboo, just when there bent usually there bent all over and not reparable. I had one here a month ago I thought I could fix but upon further inspection it too was bent all over like every raptor 250 frame I've seen that's been in a wreck. As for the people asking for $600 shipped. I'd say low ball them and tell them you can't be sure it's not already had cracked welds and what not. As long as its not bent it's a good frame. You can fix broken welds and gusset it and it will be a good frame. A 250 raptor frame is worth about $250-300 max. Check the other forums more specific to the raptor.
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Old 04-06-2013, 02:35 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Thanks for the baseline, that is good news for the wallet! If I can find one in that range I will not hold out. But I see what you're saying about this frame and based on my experience mine is right on the edge of practical to repair. I suppose I should start a new thread once I decide. I do need to check around the forums more, I still need more posts on this one to even view the classifieds.
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Wifes: 2010 Raptor 250 WRECKED (the wife is good... rappy not so much)
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