Nick-nack Things To Do To Your Yfz & Must Haves...

[bunkerking217]

PICS DO NOT WORK!

Sorry guys, the pics were on image station and the hard drive they were backed up on crashed. With my new YFZ, I didn't have to do a lot of things because its an 07 and most of the problems were fixed.



I've had my YFZ for just about 2 years now(#300 made) and have found out the hard way on a few things on what to do to one of the best sport bikes made. I race GNCC, so a few things I do may be different from a MXer or Duner, but I hope everyone takes this post informative. You may not agree with everything I have done, nor think it may be done right, but this is just to show you guys some things you could do. I take no responsibility for YOU messing up something on YOUR quad. Here goes...



When you first ride a YFZ, you might first notice how stiff the throttle is. If you do not want to clip the spring thinking you might mess something up, you can add a new throttle assembly. The honda throttles work great, but not just any honda throttle. In the pic, the bottom lever is from a TRX90, and the top is from a 400ex. There is about 1/2" difference, and when you race for 2+ hours, it makes a much bigger difference than it sounds. It costs about $20-40 depending on where you get it.




After a few rides, your battery might do dead if you took the headlights off. If so, you need a "resistor kit" made by GYT-R. What happends, is the stator does not charge the battery after a certain RPM. This fixes that problem and lets the battery charge right. It costs about $50.



This is the best way I can describe how to install the resistor kit:


If you are like me and want to protect all the wires and add a "custom" look, you could make your own headlight guards. I know Maier sales some and Chuck(Cjpoole) sales some sweet carbon fiber ones. I think the carbon fibers run about $70, not sure on the Maiers.


That's the best measurements I could get, considering I did not really have a template when I made the first set...It was more of a trial and error thing.


Another thing to help the battery is to buy a Honda CBR600 get battery YTZ10S. It is a gel battery and a little bit stronger than the stocker. You have to cut out the plastic piece that holds the stock battery in, but thats not a big deal and not too hard with an expert behind a dremel! Haha... Battery is around $70.



Also, some of you might have experienced a messed up starter relay because of this problem. In the picture above, it is that blue box and came off a Yamaha Rhino. Not sure on the price...


The plug in the head will pop out after a while and when you are WOT at that! Pick one of these up for no more than $15 and it will save your riding day or weekend!



Make sure you pick up an in-line fuel filter and fuel mixture screw(no pic, sorry)!!! Like $2 and $20.



If you are like me and take your fenders off after every "dirty" ride, you can make your life a whole lot more simple. There are various nuts you can weld to the mounting brackets as shown.




You also might have broken a few mounting tabs on your plastic, so why not make your own?



The rear plastic can be a pain since you have to take off the airbox, so why not cut the plastic there while we're at it.




I replaced a few bolts with new ones that were all a 10mm head(makes it easier to have all the same bolts doesnt it?!?



Now, since I take my plastic off so much, I hate to unplug too many wires because of the electrical problems. I make my own key/light mount. Very sleek looking if you take your time. The first one I made sucked!!!



If you wash your quad alot and don't use the air box lid when you ride, tape the whole and put it on when you wash it! Save you some trouble and you won't have to be so careful not to get water in the intake.



Let's talk about how to keep mud out of your rims! After one race, I think I had at least 10lbs of mud in each rim. Depending on your type of rim depends on how you can make some mud caps. If you don't have beadlocks or at least reinforced rims, I think you're up the creek without a paddle! If you have reinforced rims and want a picture of them also, PM me. In this picture, you can see how I made the mounting tabs, made about an 8-7/8" diameter plexi-type glass circular piece, cut it in half, and cut a piece out for the axle. This makes it easier to get the pieces off without taking the hubs off the axle. Only half the mudcap is pictured...



Well, I think every rear grab bar comes loose, so how to fix it. Well let's see. An aftermarket grab bar will fix it, but how bout if you are short on cash. The 'nuts' in there will come out and you could put new nuts to tighten it, but if you didn't know that, you could tac-weld it.... Ooops, guess it was a little late for me.



Most of you with AC rear skid plates have them coming loose constantly!! The only fix I have found is this... use a washer, loctite the bolt, and if you can, put a nut on the backside of it(sorry no picture of the nut)



If you are like me and like nerf bars under the brake and shift levers, but do not have any - make some!! This is 2 zipties with electrical tape around them.



On the handlebars, there are some wires you can take off. The one going to the throttle, just unplug it, cut it, and use a connector to put them together. The wire going to the brake, just unplug it. The wire going to the clutch, unplug it, but make sure you plug the 2 wires together that are in the wiring harness. The wire going to the rear brake lever, just unplug it also and pull it off.





Look how clean...



I love my handguards, but if you hit the smallest thing on them, they like to turn up and down a lot. Get the other piece that bolts to your handle bars and save a lot of trouble. In this pic you can also see my grips - Ourys. After again, a 2+ hour ride, the softness of these help TONS. Hand guards are like $30, other piece is like $20, and grips are like $10.



Now, to all you people who complain about the front brakes not being that great, mess with this little nut and you will change your mind - believe me!



Pretty much everyone puts on a parking brake block-off. When you first do this, you just have to get longer bolts. BUT...when you go to change your rear brake pads, it is really hard if you dont cut the end of the 'knob' that sticks out. It hits up against the block-off plate and doesnt allow your rotor to spin because it pushes against the pads....kinda hard to explain, but if you have to change brake pads and have a block-off plate, you will find out what I mean. Block-offs are like $15.



I said it before and I will say it again, the best $130 I spent to day is on the stabilizer. Man this thing helps more than I will have ever thought. Saved me from a broke wrist once or twice...



Here is what we call "redneck" brake line clamps.



This picture just shows the coolant overflow and the "little black box." You can take these off if you want, but I chose not to....



Now, if you ride hard enough(haha) your seat might come off. Drill some holes in the tabs sticking down, and put a clip - problem solved.



But what about the front? DUCT TAPE!!!





That's about all I have for now...any more ideas, you are more than welcome to post them. Hope this helps at least one person, and I take donations!!!

[yfz450prince]

thankx man
its a useful info.
omar

[LEbanshee26]

your the jerry-riggin' king!!
great tips and good writeup.

[Earnhard3]

good info thanks

[1iviper]

now that's a hella good post.

[coolguy8769]

Originally posted by 1iviper@May 25 2005, 03:35 PM
now that's a hella good post.

[snapback]253738[/snapback]

TOTALLY AGREE. great post i'm gogin to have to do the clips in the taps of the seat.

[Duane]

Thanks for all the usefull tips Bunkerking. This is the type of information people need and can use on a daily basis.

My hats off to you for taking the time to post this.

Can you elaborate on the starting circuit cut-off relay problem. I've had to change mine already but that was due to human error.

[pahrump]

Great Post DOOD!!!

[JLovell]

Originally posted by bunkerking217@May 24 2005, 09:03 PM
Now,* if you ride hard enough(haha) your seat might come off.* Drill some holes in the tabs sticking down, and put a clip - problem solved.

Ah Man! I thought I rode hard enough.. but my seat hasn't fallen off yet!!






Those are all very good points though.. I'd say I have about 60% of them done to mine.

edit: actually it should be PINNED

[BiggLee]

great post.lotsa useful info

[silent22]

This needs to be PINNED. Very good info.

[bunkerking217]

Thanks guys...

Ah Man! I thought I rode hard enough.. but my seat hasn't fallen off yet!! disgust.gif

Haha, come follow me - I'll make you!

Can you elaborate on the starting circuit cut-off relay problem. I've had to change mine already but that was due to human error.

One day after I washed it, I didn't crank it right after --- ALWAYS crank your bike within about 10 minutes of washing it even if it's only running for about 10 seconds. This helps keep the electronics working properly. Well, needless to say, about 3 days later I wanted to crank it and change the oil to get ready for the race that weekend. Pressed the starter, and NOTHING. I do probably 95% of my own maintence work so me and my dad started trouble shooting. 30 minutes later, we loaded it up in the truck and brought it to my sponsor - always good to have! It's the local Yamaha/Honda shop, but they deal aftermarket parts, so it's basically my only sponsor. It's also good because I get to put my bike ahead of all the other customer's bikes (shh, don't tell) Well, so my mechanic wouldn't do all the same stuff I tried, I told him what I did, and watched him go at it. He thought for a second, did a few trouble shooting ideas himself - looked across the shop at a Rhino, walked over to it and grabbed the starter relay. Put it in mine and WAHLAH!!! Just make sure your kill switch is wired to the bottom connector coming from the ignition - only if you have the stock one! That would cause it to short out, along with the stator and flywheel - You can asked Trey about that one....

Mine was caused from water soaking in the box over time though...

[yfz150]

Thanks a lot dude
Best info I have ever seen!

[heavypettingzoo]

great post change and your username to macgeyver or however you spell it . i have a little nick nack tip to get more out of the throttle. if you look at the throttle lever directly above it is a little box. there should be a screw sticking out of that box. turn the screw counter clockwise until it sticks out maybe 1/8 of an inch more(approximately) you coul turn it more or less depending on what you like. it feels like it pulls longer in each gear to me.

[heavypettingzoo]

if anyone does the throttle screw thing to their bike please post what you thought of it.

[Duane]

Originally posted by bunkerking217@May 26 2005, 12:07 AM
Thanks guys...
Haha, come follow me - I'll make you!*
One day after I washed it, I didn't crank it right after --- ALWAYS crank your bike within about 10 minutes of washing it even if it's only running for about 10 seconds.* This helps keep the electronics working properly.* Well, needless to say, about 3 days later I wanted to crank it and change the oil to get ready for the race that weekend.* Pressed the starter, and NOTHING.* I do probably 95% of my own maintence work so me and my dad started trouble shooting.* 30 minutes later, we loaded it up in the truck and brought it to my sponsor - always good to have!** ** It's the local Yamaha/Honda shop, but they deal aftermarket parts, so it's basically my only sponsor.* It's also good because I get to put my bike ahead of all the other customer's bikes (shh, don't tell)* Well, so my mechanic wouldn't do all the same stuff I tried, I told him what I did, and watched him go at it.* He thought for a second, did a few trouble shooting ideas himself - looked across the shop at a Rhino, walked over to it and grabbed the starter relay.* Put it in mine and WAHLAH!!!* Just make sure your kill switch is wired to the bottom connector coming from the ignition - only if you have the stock one!* That would cause it to short out, along with the stator and flywheel - You can asked Trey about that one....

Mine was caused from water soaking in the box over time though...

[snapback]253896[/snapback]

Thanks for the info.....took me about 15 minutes to figure mine out. I had to make some jumpers to jump out the relay coil. I wish I had a Rhino sitting next to me. Would have made it easier.

[YFZ_53]

garrett, im on my way to ur house right now; jake wants me to come check out yalls trailer........ maybe you can show me lots more cute little tricks while im there

[yfz460]

One day after I washed it, I didn't crank it right after --- ALWAYS crank your bike within about 10 minutes of washing it even if it's only running for about 10 seconds. This helps keep the electronics working properly.

i disagree. applying power to wet electrical equipment is not a good thing. it can short out and blow a fuse or burn up the device. the only problem with just letting wet electricals dry is the water has impurities that will cause corrosion. this will also jack things up. you can use an electrical cleaner to get water out of the electrical equipment and reduce corrosion.


otherwise nice post.

[yfz460]

Originally posted by heavypettingzoo@May 26 2005, 02:25 PM
great post change and your username to macgeyver or however you spell it . i have a little nick nack tip to get more out of the throttle. if you look at the throttle lever directly above it is a little box. there should be a screw sticking out of that box. turn the screw counter clockwise until it sticks out maybe 1/8 of an inch more(approximately) you coul turn it more or less depending on what you like. it feels like it pulls longer in each gear to me.

[snapback]254067[/snapback]

are you refering to the throttle stop screw?

[bunkerking217]

Originally posted by yfz460@May 26 2005, 05:09 PM
i disagree. applying power to wet electrical equipment is not a good thing. it can short out and blow a fuse or burn up the device. the only problem with just letting wet electricals dry is the water has impurities that will cause corrosion. this will also jack things up. you can use an electrical cleaner to get water out of the electrical equipment and reduce corrosion.
otherwise nice post.

[snapback]254177[/snapback]

Thanks, I figured someone would say that, and that's exacly what I said when I was told this. But, that's what my mechanic and dad said for me to do. One is a certified service man, the other use to be for a good 20+ years. If it messes a fuse up, thats minor. Anything other than that, they will fix

Edit* Oh yea, di-electric grease has became one of my best friends lately, but it seems to show a weak spot...