fuel injected vs. carb - Yamaha YFZ450 Forum : YFZ450, YFZ450R, YFZ450X Forums
  Yamaha YFZ450

Suzuki Z400

Suzuki LT-R450



Kawasaki KFX450

ATV Videos

Can-Am DS450
 
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 01-29-2012, 06:47 PM   #1 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 123
Default fuel injected vs. carb

hey guys just wanted to know your thought about the two and which one you'd rather have. also why you'd choose one or the other and the pros and cons of he two. I'm new here so just want to get a little informed
dunecrazy95 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 01-29-2012, 07:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
YFZMan2010's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: McConnellsburg, PA
Posts: 593
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dunecrazy95 View Post
hey guys just wanted to know your thought about the two and which one you'd rather have. also why you'd choose one or the other and the pros and cons of he two. I'm new here so just want to get a little informed
Chose the fuel injection because it was the latest and greatest thing. Easier starting, NO CHOKE, and more power (debatable I'm sure). More complicated and expensive to tune, but its more precise (down to the % throttle and rpm's). But 3 dollar jets are much cheaper than a couple hundred dollar dyno bill. Hope this helps
__________________
2010 YFZ 470
97mm 13:1 Compression Piston.
HJR Custom Grind Cams.
Balanced OEM Crank.
Fuel Customs Intake.
Curtis Sparks Big Core Ceramic Coated.
Power Commander V.

Get "Herr" Done
YFZMan2010 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2012, 07:26 PM   #3 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
wyattski's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Iowa
Posts: 352
Default

Actually you can get more go out of a carb than efi and cheaper...
__________________
2007 yfz 450
Hot Rods crank
Hot Rods bearings
Durablue carrier
LRD PRO 4 exhaust
Works Performance shocks
Pro Taper Bars
Couple homemade secerets
More to come...
wyattski is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2012, 07:34 PM   #4 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
SuperCrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 1,245
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wyattski View Post
Actually you can get more go out of a carb than efi and cheaper...
This is a completely true statement. Ok now as far as which one is better as someone who has owned several of the original YFZ's and only rode a couple of YFZ X models I will say this. Hands down power will go to the origianl one. With that being said the ergonomics and comfort level is much better on the new R/X. I have had the chance to ride a fully built XC X-model and the main thing I like is the wider seat, other than that I will stick with the original. By the time you get the EFI ones where they are making good power you could have already had the Carb'd ones with the same power and started to work on suspension upgrades.

Now if your going to just trail ride, and your not worried about the suspension upgrades definitely go with one of the EFI models. Hope this helps
__________________
2012 ZBROZ Rider Support Program

07 Ballance Bike< ArsFx +0.5 A-arms, ArsFx Pro Series Swinger & Linkage, EXIT 2 Shocks, ArsFx +2 antivibe stem, Fasst Flexx Bars, Houser Bounce Nerfs, Precision Pro Stabalizer, Quad Tech Hump Seat, E-Sticky Graphics, ATP Head, Rekluse Z-Start Pro, Motoworks SR4 G2

05 YFZ Practice Bike< ArsFx +0.5 A-Arms, ArsFx +2 antivibe stem, Precision Pro Stabalizer, Fasst Flexx Bars, Houser Bounce Nerfs, Motoworks SR4 G2, Ohlins Ballance Shocks, ArsFX linkage.....
SuperCrew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2012, 07:34 PM   #5 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: st louis,missouri
Posts: 97
Default

Go carb more power and cheaper fuel injection is just more smooth
badazz450 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2012, 07:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
skitchin1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: sag-nasty mi
Posts: 179
Default

just have to put the wrench time in to carb. and not plug and play.
skitchin1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2012, 09:00 PM   #7 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 123
Default

thanks for the help guys! i have a carb'd yfz all stock. i want to start upgrading and start raising some serious horsepower. what should i get to start off and what will make the most power for starting bolt ons before working into the motor?
dunecrazy95 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2012, 09:11 PM   #8 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 26
Default

id put on a fmf jet kit an pull the spark arrester from the muffler along with kn airfilter and no decklid.. cheap an will give a bit more power and sound, or new pipes depends if u got money or not ha. thats all iv done to mine and i felt a pretty good difference, im wut u would call on a budget ha.
yfz450rider51 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2012, 09:12 PM   #9 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
skitchin1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: sag-nasty mi
Posts: 179
Default

this is copied from some one.

Far as mods for "Free Power",,

1) Do the "CAM TIMING MOD"
that makes a Large change.
(Google it,,,a buncha places have instructions with pictures,etc)

2)Remove air filter lid

3)Remove the Spark Arrestor in the Exhaust

4) Advance the ignition timing a LITTLE

You MUST rejet the thing.
Figure about $20

You NEED to use premium quality Synthetic Oil,,,thats a few $$$

It'd be WISE to use a NGK IRIDIUM plug,,,about $10

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,…
As-Is ,,,your 450 makes about 40HP @ 8,000.

Power falls drastically after that---engine just runs out of breath

By 10,000 it's about 28 hp

The above listed Mods will raise it to about 50HP.

But Far more importantly,,,it fattens the power curve AFTER the stock 8,000rpm Peak.

Power falls off far,far less and much "slower"

It will actually Pull all the way to over 10,000 rpm.

And make as much power over 10,000 as it does Now,,MAX.

An approx 25% gain in Power,,,
at an approx 25% Higher RPM,,,,
WILL put an end to your complaining about "Not Fast enough"

Your stock motor Suffocates,,,and cannot even wind-out Hi Gear.
And just piddle-farts around ,,,slowly revving out the lower gears as it power falls like a rock.
Basically "Over Revving" beyond it's Peak

The above mods will make it BEHAVE like a real Race Engine.
It will pull Strong until it quits revving.

How well you TUNE it,,,ie Jetting and Ignition Timing,,,will determine Total HP Number.

You can find How-To's allllllll over the internet on each mod.

It'll outperform $500~1,000 worth of Bolt-On crap.

And it does NOT really bother the engine at all.
Those motors are set -up sorta odd , originally.
It's almost a a form of restriction.
The Mods,,,set everything closer to "Optimum",,,
or how Yamaha COULD-HAVE chosen to set it up.

So it's no freaky,oddball stressful Hop Up Hatchet job.

Not a bad deal,,,for "Free"

...............................
Lastly,,and NOT Free,,,
get 2 countershaft sprockets.
1 tooth Larger than stock,,
1 tooth Smaller than stock.

Your motor will NOT rev to it's Max RPM in stock form.
After the Mods,,,it WILL.

A SMALLER front Sprocket ,,,,with the extra RPM's from the Mods,,,will go FASTER top speed,,,,but also have Much Greater acceleration when pulling thru the gears.

The 1 tooth Larger,,,will go a lot Faster top speed,,because the engine can pull it to a much higher rpm than the stock motor can

Gearing is optional,,,,having the Stock gear,,and a +1 & -1 gives you a Bunch of flexibility to dial it in for Where & How you ride.

get a full exhaust. for cam mod your all ready there when you check the valves.
skitchin1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2012, 09:36 PM   #10 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 123
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by skitchin1 View Post
this is copied from some one.

Far as mods for "Free Power",,

1) Do the "CAM TIMING MOD"
that makes a Large change.
(Google it,,,a buncha places have instructions with pictures,etc)

2)Remove air filter lid

3)Remove the Spark Arrestor in the Exhaust

4) Advance the ignition timing a LITTLE

You MUST rejet the thing.
Figure about $20

You NEED to use premium quality Synthetic Oil,,,thats a few $$$

It'd be WISE to use a NGK IRIDIUM plug,,,about $10

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,…
As-Is ,,,your 450 makes about 40HP @ 8,000.

Power falls drastically after that---engine just runs out of breath

By 10,000 it's about 28 hp

The above listed Mods will raise it to about 50HP.

But Far more importantly,,,it fattens the power curve AFTER the stock 8,000rpm Peak.

Power falls off far,far less and much "slower"

It will actually Pull all the way to over 10,000 rpm.

And make as much power over 10,000 as it does Now,,MAX.

An approx 25% gain in Power,,,
at an approx 25% Higher RPM,,,,
WILL put an end to your complaining about "Not Fast enough"

Your stock motor Suffocates,,,and cannot even wind-out Hi Gear.
And just piddle-farts around ,,,slowly revving out the lower gears as it power falls like a rock.
Basically "Over Revving" beyond it's Peak

The above mods will make it BEHAVE like a real Race Engine.
It will pull Strong until it quits revving.

How well you TUNE it,,,ie Jetting and Ignition Timing,,,will determine Total HP Number.

You can find How-To's allllllll over the internet on each mod.

It'll outperform $500~1,000 worth of Bolt-On crap.

And it does NOT really bother the engine at all.
Those motors are set -up sorta odd , originally.
It's almost a a form of restriction.
The Mods,,,set everything closer to "Optimum",,,
or how Yamaha COULD-HAVE chosen to set it up.

So it's no freaky,oddball stressful Hop Up Hatchet job.

Not a bad deal,,,for "Free"

...............................
Lastly,,and NOT Free,,,
get 2 countershaft sprockets.
1 tooth Larger than stock,,
1 tooth Smaller than stock.

Your motor will NOT rev to it's Max RPM in stock form.
After the Mods,,,it WILL.

A SMALLER front Sprocket ,,,,with the extra RPM's from the Mods,,,will go FASTER top speed,,,,but also have Much Greater acceleration when pulling thru the gears.

The 1 tooth Larger,,,will go a lot Faster top speed,,because the engine can pull it to a much higher rpm than the stock motor can

Gearing is optional,,,,having the Stock gear,,and a +1 & -1 gives you a Bunch of flexibility to dial it in for Where & How you ride.

get a full exhaust. for cam mod your all ready there when you check the valves.
wow thats great info, I'm not very good with engines and not really much on the mechanical side so i have no idea on how to do the cam mod and don't know anything about the ignition timing so I'm hesitant on doing the cam mod because i don't want to mess up
dunecrazy95 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2012, 10:57 AM   #11 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Fort McMurray, AB
Posts: 71
Default

cam mod, no airbox lid and spark arrester and jetting will add 10HP??

that sounds a little far fetched to me.
Chops is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2012, 11:07 AM   #12 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 501
Default

Remember with Cam mod you lose bottom and gain top. I really dont like this as i dont like to shift :)
__________________
The guy from Sweden - YFZR450SE - Competing MX
Narmasil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2012, 02:00 PM   #13 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 34
Default

Made my own aluminum airbox used stock rubber intake with uni filter and origanal plastic air cleaner insert no lid 162 main jet 2, turns on pilot and used pipe unreal differance in power and throttle reaponse
jonnymonofrax is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2012, 03:33 PM   #14 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
climb-101's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,077
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dunecrazy95 View Post
thanks for the help guys! i have a carb'd yfz all stock. i want to start upgrading and start raising some serious horsepower. what should i get to start off and what will make the most power for starting bolt ons before working into the motor?

a really good job, serious power = serious money
__________________
If everything seems like your in control, your not going fast enough
ITS A MMAD WORLD
climb-101 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2012, 11:14 AM   #15 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
BlueShark450's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: West Jordan, Utah
Posts: 136
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by skitchin1 View Post
this is copied from some one.

Far as mods for "Free Power",,

1) Do the "CAM TIMING MOD"
that makes a Large change.
(Google it,,,a buncha places have instructions with pictures,etc)

2)Remove air filter lid

3)Remove the Spark Arrestor in the Exhaust

4) Advance the ignition timing a LITTLE

You MUST rejet the thing.
Figure about $20

You NEED to use premium quality Synthetic Oil,,,thats a few $$$

It'd be WISE to use a NGK IRIDIUM plug,,,about $10

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,…
As-Is ,,,your 450 makes about 40HP @ 8,000.

Power falls drastically after that---engine just runs out of breath

By 10,000 it's about 28 hp

The above listed Mods will raise it to about 50HP.

But Far more importantly,,,it fattens the power curve AFTER the stock 8,000rpm Peak.

Power falls off far,far less and much "slower"

It will actually Pull all the way to over 10,000 rpm.

And make as much power over 10,000 as it does Now,,MAX.

An approx 25% gain in Power,,,
at an approx 25% Higher RPM,,,,
WILL put an end to your complaining about "Not Fast enough"

Your stock motor Suffocates,,,and cannot even wind-out Hi Gear.
And just piddle-farts around ,,,slowly revving out the lower gears as it power falls like a rock.
Basically "Over Revving" beyond it's Peak

The above mods will make it BEHAVE like a real Race Engine.
It will pull Strong until it quits revving.

How well you TUNE it,,,ie Jetting and Ignition Timing,,,will determine Total HP Number.

You can find How-To's allllllll over the internet on each mod.

It'll outperform $500~1,000 worth of Bolt-On crap.

And it does NOT really bother the engine at all.
Those motors are set -up sorta odd , originally.
It's almost a a form of restriction.
The Mods,,,set everything closer to "Optimum",,,
or how Yamaha COULD-HAVE chosen to set it up.

So it's no freaky,oddball stressful Hop Up Hatchet job.

Not a bad deal,,,for "Free"

...............................
Lastly,,and NOT Free,,,
get 2 countershaft sprockets.
1 tooth Larger than stock,,
1 tooth Smaller than stock.

Your motor will NOT rev to it's Max RPM in stock form.
After the Mods,,,it WILL.

A SMALLER front Sprocket ,,,,with the extra RPM's from the Mods,,,will go FASTER top speed,,,,but also have Much Greater acceleration when pulling thru the gears.

The 1 tooth Larger,,,will go a lot Faster top speed,,because the engine can pull it to a much higher rpm than the stock motor can

Gearing is optional,,,,having the Stock gear,,and a +1 & -1 gives you a Bunch of flexibility to dial it in for Where & How you ride.

get a full exhaust. for cam mod your all ready there when you check the valves.

Now taking off the lid in the air filter box, what would happen if you got sand or something in it? I don't understand, or water, so wouldn't it hurt it to take the air filter box off?
__________________
BlueShark450 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2012, 11:26 AM   #16 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Muscat - Oman
Posts: 60
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueShark450 View Post
Now taking off the lid in the air filter box, what would happen if you got sand or something in it? I don't understand, or water, so wouldn't it hurt it to take the air filter box off?
dude when you remove the air lid off you have to be careful with water k? cuz it gives you more power in the sense you will feel it, no water should go in, but dust you can keep servicing once a month depending how often you ride
omarlekphet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2012, 11:31 AM   #17 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: PA
Posts: 45
Default

Yes it hurts a lot. You just have to use discretion when you run with no lid. The paper/fabric filters also harm your engine with dust as well. If you watch pro riders, they won't go that fast in water, and avoid water/mud holes to avoid any of that getting in the intake. I run something like this with a foam filter as a primary.. There's a little loss in power but it's worth it for me to keep the engine from destroying itself with dirt, water and mud.
__________________
ported head
kibble white valves
scary fast intake
Yoshimura Full exhuast
DWT rims
Houser Max Ground clearance LT a-arms
Ohlins Shocks
50 Pilot, 175 Main, 35 Leak, 4th clip postion
Anex570 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2012, 04:06 PM   #18 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
scarecrow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: South Africa
Posts: 590
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by skitchin1 View Post
this is copied from some one.

Far as mods for "Free Power",,

1) Do the "CAM TIMING MOD"
that makes a Large change.
(Google it,,,a buncha places have instructions with pictures,etc)

2)Remove air filter lid

3)Remove the Spark Arrestor in the Exhaust

4) Advance the ignition timing a LITTLE

You MUST rejet the thing.
Figure about $20

You NEED to use premium quality Synthetic Oil,,,thats a few $$$

It'd be WISE to use a NGK IRIDIUM plug,,,about $10

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,…
As-Is ,,,your 450 makes about 40HP @ 8,000.

Power falls drastically after that---engine just runs out of breath

By 10,000 it's about 28 hp

The above listed Mods will raise it to about 50HP.

But Far more importantly,,,it fattens the power curve AFTER the stock 8,000rpm Peak.

Power falls off far,far less and much "slower"

It will actually Pull all the way to over 10,000 rpm.

And make as much power over 10,000 as it does Now,,MAX.

An approx 25% gain in Power,,,
at an approx 25% Higher RPM,,,,
WILL put an end to your complaining about "Not Fast enough"

Your stock motor Suffocates,,,and cannot even wind-out Hi Gear.
And just piddle-farts around ,,,slowly revving out the lower gears as it power falls like a rock.
Basically "Over Revving" beyond it's Peak

The above mods will make it BEHAVE like a real Race Engine.
It will pull Strong until it quits revving.

How well you TUNE it,,,ie Jetting and Ignition Timing,,,will determine Total HP Number.

You can find How-To's allllllll over the internet on each mod.

It'll outperform $500~1,000 worth of Bolt-On crap.

And it does NOT really bother the engine at all.
Those motors are set -up sorta odd , originally.
It's almost a a form of restriction.
The Mods,,,set everything closer to "Optimum",,,
or how Yamaha COULD-HAVE chosen to set it up.

So it's no freaky,oddball stressful Hop Up Hatchet job.

Not a bad deal,,,for "Free"

...............................
Lastly,,and NOT Free,,,
get 2 countershaft sprockets.
1 tooth Larger than stock,,
1 tooth Smaller than stock.

Your motor will NOT rev to it's Max RPM in stock form.
After the Mods,,,it WILL.

A SMALLER front Sprocket ,,,,with the extra RPM's from the Mods,,,will go FASTER top speed,,,,but also have Much Greater acceleration when pulling thru the gears.

The 1 tooth Larger,,,will go a lot Faster top speed,,because the engine can pull it to a much higher rpm than the stock motor can

Gearing is optional,,,,having the Stock gear,,and a +1 & -1 gives you a Bunch of flexibility to dial it in for Where & How you ride.

get a full exhaust. for cam mod your all ready there when you check the valves.
Dont listen to the power figures in this post. Its way off

Actually just ignore that post cause most of it is a lot of crap.
__________________
07' YFZ 450
PEP PB1 front and rear, Lonestar +2 A-arms, HMF Competition exhaust, Precision dampner ,HST ported head, Lonestar +2 axle, Flexx bars, Powermadd handguards, Houser +2 stem and clamp, OMF beadlocks, DG bumper, Pro design Intake, Long range tank, GYTR nerf bars

04' YFZ 450, Custom axis front shocks, Gibson +2 A-arms, Pep rear shock, Airtime +2 axle, Airtime +1 stem and clamp, Flexx bars, Pro Circuit T4 slip-on, DWT rear beadlocks, Airtime front bumper, Hyde skidplates
scarecrow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2012, 04:44 PM   #19 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
joshsdaddy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Nanticoke,PA
Posts: 605
Default

yeh i beat my buddies worked 09' every time with my 05. Mine has more torque also. But gotta admit his is alot more comfortable to ride, and out handles mine by far.
__________________
Sponsors: Just In Time Auto Repair
District 6 and PA State Harescramble Series
05 YFZ450SE,cam mod,spring mod,Boyeson Quick Shot 3,Fuel Customs Intake, R&D Air Screw, HLS Elite shocks, Alba XC A-arms, Full HMF Compitition,XFR Pro Series II nerfs, Moose Swing arm skid, Maxxis Razrs, 09' +1 Steering Stem, 1" Risers, PowerMadd,Renthal chain and sprockets,Pro Taper bars,Renthal grips,VP Race Fuel,Maxima Oils.
joshsdaddy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2012, 05:06 PM   #20 (permalink)
Member
 
Scottyamaha's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 50
Default

Carbs you can control the fuel much better imo. Fuel injection comes with electronics, and electronics = added weight and problems. That is just me though, Yamaha is releasing the new carbureted YFZ this year too.
__________________
05' YFZ450 Athena 480cc w/ oil mod & YZ clutch.

[IMG][/IMG]
Scottyamaha is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:44 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2